Showing posts with label acrylic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label acrylic. Show all posts

How to make big silicone molds from 3D printed objects

Volum3 from Romania made a tutorial on how to make large molds with several 3D printed parts acrylic plaster and silicone that can be used to cast relatively big objects from polyurethane foam.




Instructables page:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Cheap-Silicone-Mold-of-a-3D-Printed-/




Tower Simple XL 200 USD DIY 3D printer

Here is a new simple and low cost machine project by Almus Yang. It has laser cut plywood frame and acrylic structural parts, it has no 3D printed parts. It can be sourced for some 200 USD on low cost parts sites like Alibaba.



Very detailed construction guide can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-3D-Printer-Under-200/

All the files on Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:797666

BuzzBox universal 3d printer enclosure

3D printing is in fast expansion, so the accessories makers are emerging to give your 3d printer new upgrades. BuzzBox is a 3d printer enclosure that will increase print quality and decrease harmful side-effects like fumes and noise.

BuzzBox 3d printer enclosure features:
  • Reduce or eliminate issues like warping, curling, cracking, noise, heat loss, or harmful fumes
  • Dimensions: 12″ x 16″ x 11″ (mostly small-er machines like Afinia-s...) 
  • Two tool holders
  • Carbon activated filter system (Lower and upper inlets)
  • Open source components (not the case itself, but various attachments) 
  • Easy swing door with magnetic latches
  • 3 filament spool holders
  • Filament guide rod
  • Rubber feet to reduce vibrations
  • Laser cut acrylic design for durability
  • Future versions will incorporate LED lighting and an active fan system with controller
  • Made in Jasper, Indiana, USA.
  • Price: $275 up to $500 depending of a version   







BuzzBox enclosure Kickstarter video presentation:

BuzzBox homepage:

http://buzzbox.apogeescience.com/

BuzzBox is on Kickstarter:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/729827674/buzzbox-3d-printer-enclosure

If you want to make your own enclosure from simple and cheap materials take a look at following projects:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/03/low-cost-simple-3d-printer-enclosure.html

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/03/diy-3d-printer-enclosure-made-from-pir.html

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/03/diy-3d-printer-enclosure-made-from-wood.html

And here is a guide on how to CAD design and CNC cut the enclosure with step-by-step tutorial:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/12/how-to-design-and-cnc-cut-wooden.html


How to design and CNC cut wooden enclosure for your 3d printer

GuruBrew made an excellent tutorial video with step-by-step instructions on how to design and CNC cut wooden enclosure for your 3d printer. Video is very detailed and will guide you trough the entire process with valuable tips & tricks, software and tools used.

This is what the enclosure looks like:

































The enclosure is made out of .25 an .5 inch MDF wood and acrylic (plexiglass) plastic. It was cut ona Techno CNC router. It is designed in Solid Works and CAM software was VCarve Pro and Mach3. It was made for Maker Farm Prusa i3, but the design could fit or be addapted to most machines.

Here is the video tutorial:





Here is a video of finishing the enclosure with Plexiglas panel windows:




GuruBrew has a great YouTube channel with many useful videos I'm subscribed to and would recommend you to follow him also ...


For other similar DIY wood enclosure projects check this post which features enclosure heated by scraped hair dryer heater:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/03/diy-3d-printer-enclosure-made-from-wood.html


This style would go great with wood frame 3d printer, which I like since wood has natural and warm feeling.




Lobo 3d printer developed by Jeff Kerr




Here is first look at Lobo 3D printer developed and built by Jeff Kerr. Jeff is known for his design of Feather non-cartesian 3d printer.
He will make plans for Lobo publicly available once he has finished the project. I'll follow his work and keep this post updated.
Nice work Jeff! Keep it going!




Update:

Here is the Lobo printing:



ResinRack simple and useful accessory for your Form 1

There are many accessories for filament printers, but what can you get for your SLA machine? Here is nice useful simple innovation: the resin rack.

From the product description:
Designed to be the ultimate accessory to the Formlabs FORM 1 3D Printer, ResinRack is a UV light protected enclosure that allows you to safely store and protect up to 3 FORM 1 liquid resin trays at once.
Made from durable acrylic glass, ResinRack allows you to easily swap resin colors without the need to empty and clean your resin tray between each color change, saving you time, effort, and more importantly: resin.
As 3D printers, we designed and built ResinRack to scratch our own itch. We couldn't be happier with the result, and we know you'll feel the same.

Product Dimensions:
-8.25” Width
-6.75” Height
-7.75” Depth




































Maybe the price is little to high but you can decide on your own if it is worth it.

You can get it on Etsy:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/188631186/resinrack-for-formlabs-form-1-3d-printer?ref=listing-0


MakerPLATE 3d print platform for precise printing on various acrylic plates

MakerPLATE is interesting design of adjustable precise build plate that can hold different types and shapes of acrylic surfaces as base of 3d printed object.

  • Available for Makerbot Replicator 2.
  • Super-flat aluminum plate, machined, anodized, and laser etched
  • Snaps in place as a replacement for the standard build plate
  • Holds objects up to 125 x 250mm. (5" x 9.8")
  • 12 available slots for sliding hold clips
  • Comes with hold clips, leveling piece, washers, nuts, screws, and wrench
  • Also comes with a variety of acrylic plates to print on
  • Price: 89 USD
http://makerplate.com/







Ultimaker DIY heat chamber made from acrylic sheets



XY stepper motors are mounted outside the frame to prevent overheating









All the instructions and files can be downloaded at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:265501 or https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-heated-chamber--2

More details can be found at:

http://minifacture.wordpress.com/2014/03/07/ultimaker-heated-chamber/

Here is a similar project:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/05/diy-ultimaker-heat-chamber.html

2BEIGH3 DIY hybrid CNC machine and 3D printer with detailed build instructions

Many people are building machines they designed from scratch. Here is combination of CNC machine and 3d printer which is well documented with complete build guide. It has some interesting features like printing with many materials.

Here is 2BEIGH3 as CNC cutter slicing trough acrylic plate:



Here is 2BEIGH3 3d printing with Nylon (btw: printing Nylon emits toxic fumes, it should be done in controlled environment):


2BEIGH3 technical specifications:

  • Build volume for CNCing: 14” x 14” x 6”,  355mm x 355mm x 160mm  
  • Build volume for 3d printing: 14” x 14” x 12”, 355mm x 355mm x 355mm
  • Material Aluminium 3mm or 0.125" ABS and PLA Plastic Rod or Line
  • Plastics 2-3mm(or 0.125") Nylon, Nylon Polymers, Nylon 6 and 6/6 - 6' Rod
  • Foam 3mm or 0.125" PET (Plastic from water bottles)
  • (Steel with the addition of cooling) 
  • Resolution: X-Y Resolution +/- 0.005 ~ +/- 0.012, Z Resolution +/- 0.005 +/- 0.005
  • Cut/Print Speed 350mm/min 24mm/s
  • Cutting Foam ABS
  • Tools/Tips 0.125” – 0.250” .32mm - .62mm
Software:
  • Any CAD that makes “.dxf” and exports “.stl”
  • MACH3
  • LazyCam slic3r rev 6
  • PC Win XP


























This hybrid can print with various materials like ABS, PLA, different nylon polymers, acrylic and It can also print with reclaimed PET from the regular PET bottles. Here are the images of printed objects in different materials:



Here is a video of it printing in clear acrylic:





Hot end is also custom designed from simple parts:



























All the details need for construction of 2BEIGH3 can be found here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS



Mendel90 with lasercut MDF frame and acrylic enclosure

This looks cool. Maybe I'll find a laser cutter (which is not the easiest task in rural Croatia) in the future and try to build it. I wonder what are the heat retention impacts on print quality ...











From project description:
A modified version of the Mendel90 which uses a lasercut melamine coated MDF frame (same fixing idea as the graber i3 frame). It allows an acrylic enclosure to be fitted. 
Main changes:
Frame re-designed, Z axis changed to laser cut parts.
Some plastic parts modified (not many)
Acrylic enclosure added
Wiring simplified - all motors have detachable plugs, endstops are push fit. this allows for a wiring loom to be used.
RAMPS electronics as standard with the Panelolu2 controller.
All the detail is available on our blog:
http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2013/09/mendel90-laser-cut-ready-to-print.html
The assembly process in more detail in in this post:http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2013/10/mendel90-lasercut-overview.html
The commissioning and calibration in outline is here:
http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2013/10/mendel90-lasercut-calibration.html
The printer is designed from the start to take multiple bowden extruders as an alternative to a single direct drive extruder. Updates will follow!

Files available at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:169615

Project by: http://www.thingiverse.com/Think3dPrint3d/designs

FRAC Exhibition Models - Fabrication Details

I, along with my colleague Bob Ongaro, completed the fabrication of some 3D printed models for the FRAC exhibition in France. These were designed by Dave Pigram of supermanoeuvre. The models are housed in tight fitting clear acrylic cases. Here are the models on display in France:

This is an image of the parts in their cases during a test fit - construction paper still present on the acrylic.These cases are about 8"x8"x20": 

Fabrication of the Cases

The cases were made of 3/16" thick acrylic. I used the extruded sheets. I've since learned it's generally easier to work with cast sheets. See this page for details.

The parts were cut on the laser cutters at Tabuman College. There are three of them which during the Fall and Winter semesters see nearly constant use. I experimented a bit but went with a single, slow, high power pass to cut them out.


Here are all the laser cut pieces.

Here are the basic supplies for attaching the parts. The most important is Methylene chloride and diacetone alcohol. It's a horrible, cancer causing, nasty liquid. But it works great! This isn't a glue. It essentially dissolves and then welds the parts together at the molecular level.

Gloves, eye protection, a needle tipped applicator bottle, and a MAP gas torch are also needed.

To accurately mill these edges I used a straight cutting bit on the router table.

The fence on my router can be set very accurately, to 1/1000th of an inch.

By using a feeler gauge against the in-feed fence  it's possible to set the offset between the fences very accurately. In this way were were able to mill off 0.005" per pass. Then using the digital calipers I could creep up on the exact size piece I needed.

We used the jointer table and fence, which can be set very accurately to 90 degrees, to glue the edges. The needle tip applicator rides along the inside corner as capillary action pulls the solvent into the joint.

The two pieces are butted up against a square to ensure they are perfectly aligned.

Fabrication of the Printed Models

The parts were printed at the University of Michigan 3D Lab. A ZCorp 510 printer was used. This printer is 12 years old, which is ancient in computer terms, but it still works well. Here a part is being excavated from the powder:

Here's the first part. It should measure 7.87" on the edge. It does! The printer is pretty accurate in XY but less accurate in Z.This introduced some problems.

 Here are the four parts printed, but not yet hardened.

The parts are drizzled in Cyanoacrylate glue (same stuff as Krazy Glue). This huge bottle, almost all of which was used, is about $90 US. But necessary because these parts are fragile!

Sanding was required to get the planar surfaces free of debris.

The inaccuracies of 3D printing made the fit poor enough that the seams were not perfectly flush. You can see that in the gap between parts below.


Assembly

Originally the parts were planned to be glued together, two per case. During fabrication the design was changed so the parts are separated by acrylic panels. This nicely hides the imperfections in fit shown above. 

For assembly, the case is laid on its side, paper is put in along the bottom, and the first part is slid in. Next is the acrylic sheet between them. Then the lower part is slid in. Next the case is tipped on its side and the paper can be slid out. Then the bottom is slipped on. 


Result

Here are the parts on display in France:


Here you can see the alignment between layers. Also visible is the rubber tubing on the edge of the support fin. 



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