Showing posts with label PLA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label PLA. Show all posts

Design thin PLA objects and make them strong in your oven

"CNC Kitchen" published this great video on how he designed gardening clips for his raspberries. He focuses on how to design thin-walled object in Fusion 360 and how to make it more weather resistant and stronger by annealing them in his oven.


Here is the video where you will learn a nice and easy design flow process and see several tools in action:




Here is the clip STL:

http://a360.co/2qouqQO

Here is the CNC Kitchen YT channel:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg


And here are the PLA clips in the oven at 80C for 1 hour:



Bake your PLA 3D prints in an oven for a higher strength

Thomas made an interesting experiment where he baked in an standard household oven some PLA (and other filament) objects. It looks like you can improve the strength significantly with this simple method.

See the entire process and measurements in his video:




With change in strength, there is naturally some shrinkage and expansion in different axis.





















Let us know in the comments if you have simillar experiences with heat treated PLA or simillar materials!

Emerging synergy of lasers and 3d printers with real-time scanning and cutting

What is cooler then lasers? Well, lasers and 3d printers combined! duh! At some time at past I have argued on some forums that lasers will become integral parts of 3d printers and I was met with lot of opposition. There have been some attempts to integrate laser based 3d scanners into 3d printers even in commercial products but it is far from wide acceptance.
Yet, adding a laser with sensing electronics can give you so much more then just cheap 3d scanning.

Here is a video by Claudio Di Leo, MIT student, who attached a Infiniter VLM-650-27 line laser to a Solidoodle which uses a 2MP web camera to scan printbed enabling it to 3d print on place object. The entire upgrade costs some 50 USD but increases the ability of the machine.




Now, what would happen if you turn up the power on the laser?

There are several simple DIY laser cutter projects based on replacing the extruder but what if a laser cutter would be a separate tool moving independently?

Here is a video demonstration of laser cutting 3d printed PLA object. As you can see it can be done easily.




Here is a project with detailed guide and software on how to make springs with a laser cutter from different materials but also features PLA 3d printed tube:



Here are detailed instructions for spring laser cutter:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Cut-Helical-Springs/?ALLSTEPS

So, what could we achieve if we integrate active lasers into 3d printers:

  1. 3d scanning
  2. real-time scanning of print volume for continuous 3d print calibration, sensing failure and continuation of aborted prints
  3. 3d printing on objects attached to a print surface
  4. laser cutting printed objects giving new dimensions to 3d printed objects
  5. "standard" laser cutting of sheet materials, engraving and PCB processing
This could be the next big thing :-)




How to smooth your PLA prints with domestic pipe cleaner

3D Print Tips YT channel posted a video on how to use PVC pipe cleaner that is commercially available to vapor smooth PLA. The cleaner fluid is probably rich with THF (tetrahydrofuran) so it has a similar effect as acetone on ABS plastic. Do keep in mind that this method is probably less effective than using dichloromethane and chloroform.

The procedure is simple, the object is suspended above the heated THF rich fluid and the vapors dissolve surface layers and make them smooth.

Do keep in mind that the fumes are toxic and there is a fire hazard! Heating THF causes unstable explosive peroxide compounds that are carcinogenic. 

Here is the PLA part after the process. You can see that the surface is polished and shiny looking. LAyers are almost not visible.




Here is video showing the setup with few simple supplies like copper wire, mason jar and heater:



You can read the first post about THF polishing and smoothing here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/06/smoothing-and-polishing-pla-with-thf.html

Does anyone know of any similar simple chemical to polish PLA? I know that you can make PLA flexible with carburetor cleaner.

Airwolf 3D launches WOLFBITE NANO adhesive for PLA

After the great success Airwolf had with their Wolfbite ABS adhesive, now they present Wolfbite Nano adhesive solution for PLA filaments. It will help the object stick to the print surface and prevent warping and similar  problems.



From the Wolfbite Nano page:
WolfBite Nano is applied with an applicator brush straight onto glass, eliminating the need for tape. One light coat of Wolfbite can be used for several prints. After applying Wolfbite Nano directly on glass, printing can commence immediately, either with a heated or room-temperature bed.
Airwolf 3D specially formulated the proprietary solution to not only promote excellent adhesion but also to make part removal easy. Parts maybe removed post print by immersing the glass plate in water for a short period of time, if necessary.
“As manufacturers of 3D printers that are capable of printing large parts in PLA, we are aware of the frustrations with painter’s tape and adhesion,” said Wolf “After months of research and development, we are pleased to offer a solution that will benefit nearly all desktop 3D printer users. Wolfbite NANO™ was developed at Airwolf 3D through collaboration with Professor Miodrag “Mickey” Micic, Ph.D., who is a department chairman at Cerritos College in Norwalk, Calif., and a well known polymer chemist.
“This is a new, environmentally friendly solution for resolving the acute problem of PLA- based 3D printing, part adhesion and warpage. The solution is based on a combination of green chemistry and nanotechnology to create the best possible adhesion using compounds which are generally regarded as safe,” said Micic.
Wolfbite is packaged in a two fluid ounce container and comes with a foam brush applicator. It is currently available for sale on the Airwolf website at an introductory price of $19.99.
Airwolf is surely becoming industry leader in adhesion solutions! Good work!

Here is video presentation of Wolfbite Nano:


There are still no independent tests or reviews.

How to use friction welding to repair and make 3d printed objects

Here are two video guides by youtube user Scorch on using a Dremel based DIY friction welder. Great work Scorch!

Here is a video on how to make a Buckyball from 3d printed hexagons:



... and video on how to repair 3d printed objects:




Friction welding works with both PLA and ABS.

While good people of Hackaday think this is a new 3d printing technique it is actually used for a quite some time now.

here you can see it in action making and repairing stuff:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/how-to-friction-weld-plastic-with.html

... and here you can see a guide on how to make it work and make a small DIY plastic welder:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/01/diy-friction-plastic-welder-by-fran.html

And if you want to use 3d printed plastic rivets for friction riveting things together:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/3d-printed-rivets-for-friction-welding.html

If you want to go the ultrasonic way or DIY heat plastic welding in the "old school style":

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2012/12/diy-ultrasonic-plastic-welding.html

And here is how a friction welding seam looks like (from Scorch's video):











Using home microwave for lost PLA 3d printed aluminum parts

Lost PLA is method used to produce cement molds for metal casting and it is used mostly with molten aluminum. Desired object is 3d printed in PLA, cast is made around it and the PLA is melted away. The mold is then used for metal casting. Entire process is usually done with a propane gas powered kiln or smelter, and this project used home microwave oven.

The process is simple but you will need to take safety seriously. Object 3d printed in PLA is coated with susceptor that transforms microwaves into heat. Susceptor is made from mixture of silicon carbide, sugar, water, and alcohol. The part is then placed in a mold made of plaster of paris with perlite and heated in an unmodified household microwave to burn out the PLA.
A second microwave with a top emitter is used to melt aluminum, which is then poured into the prepared mold. When the metal cools down, the mold is broken to take out the metal part for post-processing



























From project description:
Our system uses consumer microwave units to perform burn-out of PLA from molds, and a second microwave to liquify aluminium, to be poured into the mold. 3d printer inspired mechanics will move the aluminium from the microwave, into the target mold under human control across the network, so that there is no risk to the person operating the machine.
What is working and what we're working towards:
What works now is that we are able to successfully melt aluminum inside a microwave and supply our molds to get fine quality crafted aluminium parts.
The vision is to automate the process and build machines so that the system can be remotely run by a human being safely from their terminal.
Automation will be as simple as two to three machines powered by arduino with minimum axes.

One machine will be a forklift to pickup the item and deposit it safely onto a pair of fire bricks. One is a crane to pickup the top from the kiln, and one is a combination of forklift and a x,y table. This will pickup the cup, place over target, and pour through a heated steel funnel into the mold.
Ideally, we see an operator walking to the machine, starting the microwave on the mold & aluminium. When notified the machine is done, the operator can use gloves to pickup and bury the mold in sand, then walk back to their workstation, and pour the aluminum remotely. This will reduce the risk of injury to an operator to near 0, and not require any dangerous gasses to perform the melt.
All of the software will be released under the GNU GPL V3 as the project advances, with the hardware designs released under the TAPR OHL.

Detailed project page and build log on hackaday.io:

http://hackaday.io/project/2434-microwave-aluminium-printing

Project homepage:

http://fosscar.faikvm.com/trac/wiki/LostPLA


UPDATE:

Here is very detailed video presentation by Julia Longtin on Chaos Computer Club 31th Chaos Communication Congress. It is a great how-to guide on casting high quality 6040 aluminum pieces using a 3D printer and commercially available consumer microwaves



Here is a more detailed guide on how to make and use microwave oven DIY smelter for silver or tin solder:

http://www.instructables.com/id/microwave-smelter/?ALLSTEPS





Here is a different approach to melting aluminum in a microwave oven:



FilaSoy is soy based 3d printing filament developed by Purdue University students





Team of students from Purdue University developed a new 3d printing filament made from polylactide (PLA) which is made from corn, starch, tapioca root and sugar cane and  20-25% soy materials.

FilaSoy key advantages:
There are many benefits to FilaSoy over currently available filaments. The melting temperature of FilaSoy is lower than other filaments in the market, which saves energy costs. It also has a higher Young’s modulus than PLA (a common filament used for 3D printing) for greater resistance to deformation. This allows users to create a wide variety of products such as toys, specialty parts, models, art, and more.
The concept of FilaSoy is not simply to generate a generic material for the currently available products. FilaSoy also brings a renewable, cost effective product (soy) as an additive to the current available market while changing the properties of the material for other purposes and significantly reducing the cost of production. Since FilaSoy is renewable and derived from plant matter, it is green, recyclable, and maintains superior quality.
FilaSoy specifications:
  • Function: S3D Innovations’ FilaSoy is the next generation 3D printing material. Replace harmful petroleum based plastic with low energy, low temperature, and all renewable based filament. Retain similar properties found in PLA with an added green twist. Print your prototypes, designs, models, and more without worrying about waste. This product is completely renewable and recyclable.
  • To Use: Insert filament end into 3D printer head or as instructed in your 3D printer manual. Set the temperature at 220/230°C. For best results please iterate printer setting until filament extrudes smoothly.
  • Ingredients: FilaSoy is composed of approximately 20-25% soy-based materials and raw polylactide pellets.
  • Safety: FilaSoy has a very low degree of toxicity under normal conditions of use. Caution is advised when handling, storing, using, or disposing. Keep in cool and dry storage area. Do not use with food or ingest. Potential choking hazard. Keep away from children and pets.

 http://s3dinnovations.wix.com/filasoy








Photo buildlog on how to cast metal with lost-PLA method

Here is detailed step-by-step buildlog or photo guide of how to cast metal (bronze) jewelry into mold produced with lost-PLA casting method. It goes from design to final product stage. Object is 3d printed and used in mold making by melting away the plastic with high temperature.






Finished bronze pendant 





























Source: http://imgur.com/a/7K870

Reddit thread by its creator about it with more details:

http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/22osqr/my_first_lostpla_casting_with_lots_of_pictures/


Here is very detailed video tutorial about same casting method for larger objects in aluminum:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/05/3d-printing-and-metal-casting-tutorial.html

Update:

You can see more objects made by same maker here:  http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/06/more-bronze-objects-made-with-lost-pla.html

Michigan Tech study on tensile strength of models printed on RepRaps and commercial 3d printers

They found out that the objects can have the same tensile strength.
Study abstract
The recent development of the RepRap, an open-source self-replicating rapid prototyper, has made 3-D polymer-based printers readily available to the public at low costs (<$500). The resultant uptake of 3-D printing technology enables for the first time mass-scale distributed digital manufacturing. RepRap variants currently fabricate objects primarily from acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and polylactic acid (PLA), which have melting temperatures low enough to use in melt extrusion outside of a dedicated facility, while high enough for prints to retain their shape at average use temperatures. In order for RepRap printed parts to be useful for engineering applications the mechanical properties of printed parts must be known. This study quantifies the basic tensile strength and elastic modulus of printed components using realistic environmental conditions for standard users of a selection of open-source 3-D printers. The results find average tensile strengths of 28.5 MPa for ABS and 56.6 MPa for PLA with average elastic moduli of 1807 MPa for ABS and 3368 MPa for PLA. It is clear from these results that parts printed from tuned, low-cost, open-source RepRap 3-D printers can be considered as mechanically functional in tensile applications as those from commercial vendors.
Study highlights
  • Low costs enable mass-scale distributed digital manufacturing in ABS, PLA.
  • Average tensile strengths of 28.5 MPa for ABS and 56.6 MPa for PLA.
  • Average elastic moduli of 1807 MPA for ABS and 3368 MPa for PLA.
  • RepRaps are as mechanically functional as commercial 3-D printers

New filament materials from Polymakr: PolyMax PLA, PolyFlex and PolyWood






















From Kickstarter description:

Polymakr wants to change what you can 3D print with
The rapid growth of low-cost, desktop 3D printers in the past 5 years has really made 3D printing accessible to a great number of designers, engineers and DIYers. While the machines and software keep getting better, the materials available for printing have remained more or less unchanged. The low quality and limited choices of printing materials are increasingly becoming the limiting factor for the future expansion of desktop 3D printers.
As a group of materials scientists, engineers and designers who are very passionate about 3D printing, Polymakr wants to change this, by continuously developing the best the most innovative printing materials for the maker community.
Three entirely new materials for your desktop 3D printer
The goal of this KickStarter project is to bring to you 3 entirely new materials that are designed specifically for FDM/FFF based desktop 3D printers.

PolyMax PLA: Completely re-engineered PLA with superb mechanical strength

PolyMax PLA vs. Regular PLA
Poly(lactic acid) or PLA is probably the most widely used material for desktop 3D printers nowadays. However one of the largest disadvantages of PLA is its poor mechanical properties, especially the tendency to brittle fracture. This renders regular PLA limited applicability for functional parts that are used in mechanically demanding situations.
PolyMax PLA is an entirely new PLA that is designed to solve this problem. The material exhibits over 8 times better impact strength and toughness than regular PLA. PolyMax PLA is compatible with almost all FDM-based desktop 3D printers, including many “ABS-only” printers such as MakerBot Replicator 2X (yes you are not mistaken!). It prints under identical conditions as regular PLA – so you can simply “swap and go”.


PolyFlex: soft and flexible filament with uncompromised printing quality

Excellent Printer Compatibility
Yes, there are already a few flexible filaments out there. However one thing we notice about those materials is their poor compatibility with different 3D printers. Many of them only work on one specific printer model or extruder type – and you have to bet on your luck that it works on the one you have. Some of them only work on 3 mm printers – to our knowledge there has not been a flexible filament that works consistently on 1.75 mm 3D printers.

Therefore we had a clear goal in mind: to develop a soft and flexible filament that is compatible with most desktop 3D printers - a material that everyone can use. That goal was achieved by carefully designing and optimizing the melt-flow properties of the material, and thoroughly testing the material on a large variety of printers. We are proud to announce that our PolyFlex is available in both 1.75 and 3 mm, and is compatible with most (if not all) desktop FDM/FFF 3D printers, including: MakerBot Replicator 2, Replicator 2X, Ultimaker (and several of its variations), RepRap Prusa Mendel, MakerGear M2, Afinia / Up! Plus , and many more as we can’t list everything here.

Fast Printing Speed
The biggest challenge with soft filaments is that they often lead to problems with feeding, as the material can be too soft to generate enough pressure. One compromise one often times has to make is slowing down the printing speed significantly. However this is almost not necessary for PolyFlex – for example our normal printing speed is in the range of 60 – 90 mm/min. Furthermore, PolyFlex requires no heated build plate and has very little tendency to warp (better than PLA and ABS).
The soft and flexible nature of PolyFlex offers a new dimension of what one can do with desktop 3D printers. We showed a couple examples in our video, but you can do much more with PolyFlex: toys, seals, prosthetics, shoes, belts…the possibilities are really limitless. PolyFlex also features very high printing quality and gives great details. We wish you will start making with PolyFlex soon!




PolyWood: wood-like printing material with no actual wood

Wood-like appearance from its pre-foamed structure
PolyWood is a wood-mimic printing material that contains no actual wood. So, how does PolyWood acquire this wood-like appearance? Unlike any other 3D printing filament, PolyWood has a porous microstructure, similar to natural wood. Prints made with PolyWood feature a rough surface that both looks and feels much like raw, carved wood.
As you probably are aware, there are a few commercially available wood-powder based filaments, but we think our approach is better for the following reasons:
Wood powder (often present in large amounts) tends mess up the flow properties of the polymer melt, resulting in poor printing quality. You can check out the comparison in the photo below – the difference is quite dramatic!
What’s worse, poorly dispersed wood powder can even jam the extruder on your printer, which will never happen for PolyWood.
The first 3D-printable foam
As mentioned above, PolyWood has a porous structure. In other words it is a foam. In fact it is the first 3D printable foam that has ever been developed to our knowledge. We used a unique foaming technology that stabilizes the air bubbles inside the material (imagine tiny micro-balloons) – so you can maintain the porous structure during and after the printing. Besides making stuff that looks like wood carvings, you can also think about applications that utilizes its intrinsic foamy structure – heat insulation, sound insulation, anti-vibration, just to name a few.















http://www.polymakr.com/web/about.html

They have a Kickstarter campaign:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1981875718/polymakr-entirely-new-materials-for-desktop-3d-pri

How to make PLA plastics flexible with Carburetor Cleaner

Another interesting video by Jaidyn Edwars. He took some risks here for the science :-) Now, this is for information only, do not try this at home :-) I'm not sure what would be practical implementation of this method, but it is interesting nevertheless. This chemicals are toxic ... Also, what exactly is chemical composition of carburetor cleaner? are there different formulas?




From video description:
In this video I take a look at turning PLA 3D prints flexible by bathing them in Carburetor Cleaner (also known as carby cleaner).
The results were amazing, but, I don't feel they are worth the potential dangers. Carby Cleaner is very toxic stuff that is highly flammable, not good to breath in, not good to get on your skin and the smell lingers on for ages.
Definitely do not give the parts to kids as I don't reckon putting these parts in your mouth afterwards is a good idea at all.

Source:

https://www.youtube.com/user/chickenparmi?feature=watch



How to friction weld plastic with filament and Dremel

Electronhacks made this video to show production process of the 3d printed fan duct. However it is also excellent demonstration of friction welding plastic with filament inserted into Dremel. The friction produced makes a strong welded bond.



Video by ElectronHacks

























Here are 3d printable rivets that you can use:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/3d-printed-rivets-for-friction-welding.html

Here is another post about DIY ultrasonic and soldering iron plastic welding:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2012/12/diy-ultrasonic-plastic-welding.html

Update:

here is a video with same friction welding technique with PLA plastic.



Update 2:



Using hot wire to cut PLA 3d printed parts

Here is a video about how PLA 3d printed part is cut with hot wire cutter. The cutting looks easy and precise. Hot wire cutter are usually used to cut various types of  foam and are easy to make. Looks like they can cut some PLA plastics, I wonder what would they do with ABS ...




Here is a simple schematics of a DIY hot wire cutter:
















Video source:

https://www.youtube.com/user/DistractedArchitect?feature=watch

Daily 3d printing - custom baby mask for asthma medicine nebulizer

Louis Cordoba designed and 3d printed custom nebulizer mask for his asthmatic child.  Regular mask was too big for his baby boy so he made a smaller one with better fit so that child could be administered with correct dosage of medicine. It took 3 hours to print using 20 grams of PLA.












.stl files downloadable at:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mask-for-babies

Update:

here is 3d printable asthma inhaler:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/12/3d-printable-asthma-inhaler.html

Dissolving PLA support material and leaving ABS untouched with caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide) in ultrasonic tank

PLA and BAS are most used materials in 3d printing. If we used PLA as support meterial, how can it be removed from ABS without damage to ABS? PLA can be dissolved with caustic soda  in ultrasonic tank.

Bertho Boman experimented with various concentrations and presented results on his blog:
This time I tested several different plastic types and varying strength Sodium Hydroxide.
1.0 Molar: 40g per liter water
1.8 Molar: 72g per liter water (same as the video)
3 Molar: 120g per liter water
6 Molar: 240g per liter water
Test Result:
After 5 hours in the ultrasonic tank @ 60°C there was no visual effect or surface hardness change evaluating the samples under a microscope of the different plastic types except the PLA.

http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=162




































Extensive details and experiments with other methods and how to dissolve PLA fast when no other material is involved:

http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=68#more-68


Here is video showing the process with professional ultrasonic tank and caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) that takes 3 hours to remove PLA support material from ABS part. 217 grams is added to 3 liters of water heated at 60C.
Ultrasonic tank used in the video is priced around 1300 USD, but it can be found much cheaper at some 300 USD.




They talk about dissolving PLA in .stl podcast (great podcast btw):



RepRap forums discussion:

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,153508,199753

Proto Pasta carbon, high temperature and polycarbonate alloy PLA / ABS filaments

Proto Pasta has some new filaments with enhanced properties then regular PLA / ABS.



Video from their Kickstarter:

Proto Pasta offers:

Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA

Proto-Pasta Carbon Fiber reinforced PLA is made from NatureWorks 4043D PLA Resin compounded with 15% by weight Tenax short chopped Carbon Fibers. It is designed to be stiff, or to resist bending. It is the stiffest material we offer and makes parts with an incredibly solid feel. When printed, this material is a dark glossy black that glitters slightly in direct light from the fine chopped fibers reflecting the light.
Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA does not require a heated bed and prints much like unreinforced PLA filament. The main difference is that it is brittle and care must be taken when handling the filament and loading the printer.
We have had good results printing at 190C-210C using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head. Layer adhesion is excellent and the material has low warpage.

High Temperature PLA

Proto-Pasta High Temperature PLA is made from a custom compound consisting of mineral filled impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance. To fully realize this advantage, parts must be soaked in hot water or an oven after printing at 60C-80C for 3-5 minutes. This crystallizes the material and makes it much more heat resistant. It does not require a heated bed to print well, but this may help crystallize the material after printing and make oven soaking unnecessary for some parts. High Temperature PLA is a glossy off white, or very light gray. Printed parts look good and have slightly more texture than standard PLA. This material is not translucent like standard PLA.
We have had good results printing at 190C-210C using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head.
Layer adhesion is good and the material has low warpage.
Polycarbonate/ABS Alloy
Proto-Pasta Polycarbonate-ABS (PC-ABS) Alloy is an incredibly tough material designed for strong, resilient parts. When printed, PC-ABS is bright glossy white.
Proto-Pasta PC-ABS Alloy can print well. It is very moisture sensitive and even if stored bagged with desiccant, drying in an oven for ~ 1hr at 85C-95C may be required for bubble free high strength prints. Layer adhesion can be an issue if the part is large or the temperature is too low. We have had good success printing parts ~60mm long at 260C-280C using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head. A heated bed may help warpage and layer adhesion on larger/thicker parts.

Proto Pasta filament properties










They also offer Reusable filament Folding Spool



http://www.proto-pasta.com/

3d printed reusable hook loop fasteners (ElastoStraps) done in soft PLA by Rich Olson

Things ain't gonna tie themselves together without some outside help. :-) Here is a great project by Rich Olson done in soft PLA.









Thingiverse page (you can use Thingiverse custimizer to change sizes)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:178234

Olson's blog and more details:

http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2013/11/3d-printed-hook-loop-fasteners.html

He has great tips post on how to print with various filament types including elastic PLA:

http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2013/09/filament-roundup-3d-printing-in-all.html

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