Showing posts with label abs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label abs. Show all posts

Aleph Objects and IC3D Develop First Open Source Filament

Aleph Objects, makers of the LulzBot brand of desktop 3D printers and parts announced a partnership with IC3D to develop the first open source filament. The main goal is to democratize manufacturing.
The filament is Open Source Hardware Association (OSHW) certified.



Video of the talk at the 2017 Midwest RepRap festival:



GitHub repository with filament specifications and other materials:

https://github.com/IC3DPrinters/filament-extrusion/tree/master/Open%20Source%20Filament


Lulzbot is also selling the filament at 35USD per 1kg spool:

https://www.lulzbot.com/store/filament/IC3D-ABS

Source news release:

https://www.lulzbot.com/filament-freedom

Simple Technique to Acetone Polish your ABS Prints

DIY Perks YT channel published this video with very simple and effective way to acetone vapor polish ABS parts with a simple glass container. Finished parts look very good and smooth.


Here is a tutorial video:



This technique uses the fact that acetone vapors are heavier then air and they fall down in a container. Water is used to create an air tight seal.



How to use inductive distance sensor and Mk3 aluminum hotbed for automatic bed leveling

3D Proto, creator of dual parking extruder, made an excellent video about how to install and use inductive distance sensor with Mk3 aluminum hot bed. This combination enables you to reach much better quality of ABS prints. With inductive distance sensor bed leveling you can:
  • Save lot of time by not having to have to mess with springs and screws on your print bed. Run the auto leveling routine before every print or just one time for each start-up of the printer.
  • Less issues related to non level print beds like parts coming up on one corner and nozzles jamming because the print started too close.
Inductive distance sensors are very cheap so it makes me wonder why are they not used by more 3d printers for automatic bed leveling?
If you wont to see full guide on how to install and use it with Marlin go to:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/

Inductive distance sensor on the extruder paired to Marlin firmware constantly corrects the distance to print surface

Diagram showing how to connect inductive distance sensor to control unit ie. Ramps

Combined with Mk3 Alu heated bed gives much better ABS prints like in this example where you can see very strait walls




Here is the video guide:



Source: http://3d-proto.de/

How to use friction welding to repair and make 3d printed objects

Here are two video guides by youtube user Scorch on using a Dremel based DIY friction welder. Great work Scorch!

Here is a video on how to make a Buckyball from 3d printed hexagons:



... and video on how to repair 3d printed objects:




Friction welding works with both PLA and ABS.

While good people of Hackaday think this is a new 3d printing technique it is actually used for a quite some time now.

here you can see it in action making and repairing stuff:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/how-to-friction-weld-plastic-with.html

... and here you can see a guide on how to make it work and make a small DIY plastic welder:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/01/diy-friction-plastic-welder-by-fran.html

And if you want to use 3d printed plastic rivets for friction riveting things together:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/3d-printed-rivets-for-friction-welding.html

If you want to go the ultrasonic way or DIY heat plastic welding in the "old school style":

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2012/12/diy-ultrasonic-plastic-welding.html

And here is how a friction welding seam looks like (from Scorch's video):











DIY Stirling heat difference engine with 3d printed parts

Doug Conner developed a 3d printable homemade Stirling engine, a type of motor that creates mechanical motion from temperature differential of a medium which is air in this case. The engine is made in ABS on a Stratasys FDM printer.

This engine has some metal (brass, aluminum) parts, couple of metal screws and some rubber O-rings, but that is unavoidable due to the nature of the technology and ABS material limitations.

It takes some 50 deg F (or 28 deg C) of heat differential to move at stable speed at about 300 rpm without additional weight or load.
Project homepage:

http://www.solarheatengines.com/2012/10/29/3d-printed-stirling-engine/

All the 3d files and plans to make this Stirling engine can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34709

Here is video demonstration of the engine in action:




Doug's DIY 3d printed Stirling engine from the project homepage

GMASS tungsten and bismuth filled high density ABS filament

GMASS is a new filament with high density ABS as main component with added tungsten or bismuth metal particles.
Only limited information is available without any tests or detailed review. There are almost no pictures of it.

GMASS is priced at 95 USD range for 0,5 kg spool.


http://gmass3.businesscatalyst.com/


From GMASS product page:
GMASS™ is a patent pending specially-formulated high-density ABS-based filament for 3D printing applications. It offers the ability to rapidly prototype high-density components. Using a variety of metallic fillers, it has a density approaching traditional metals, while offering the design flexibility of ABS plastic. Now your plastic parts can have the weight and feel of metal castings! Colored filament is available in limited configurations to allow further design enhancements.
The non-toxic fillers in GMASS™ make it an excellent choice for radiation shielding without the environmental impact of lead. While designed for rapid prototyping, GMASS™ also makes an excellent material for low-quantity additive manufacturing. 
Possible applications:
  • Consumer – Sporting goods, add weight, balancing
  • Healthcare – Medical x-ray shielding, nuclear medicine components, laboratory equipment
  • Industrial – X-ray shielding, reactor shielding, vibration dampening, inertial weighting

Specifications:
  • Filament diameter: 1.75 +/- 0.10 mm
  • Base material: ABS Plastic
  • Filler material: Proprietary compounds of bismuth and tungsten Density Range: 2.7 +/- 0.1 g/cc for bismuth, 4.0 +/- 0.2 g/cc for tungsten
  • Note that stated densities are for the filled filament material. Printed part densities may vary due to printer processing parameters, and should be confirmed by the user prior to use.

PROCESSING NOTES:
  • Recommended printing temperature: 230C
  • Recommended printing speed: 40 – 90 mm/s
  • We recommend using a heated bed: 100 – 110C
  • Advised nozzle size: 0.5 - 0.6 mm
  • Note: The filament will have a higher likelihood of clogging smaller nozzles such as 0.4mm and smaller because of the tungsten particles. Therefore a larger size nozzle is recommended.

RECOMMENDATIONS:
  • A heated bed should be used to prevent warping
  • The tungsten in the filament will wear down the brass nozzle after several hours of printing. Check nozzle before each print and replaced if worn.
  • To ensure proper adhesion to print bed, a small amount of ABS slurry can be applied to the bed before starting to print.
  • To achieve maximum density, you may need to increase the flow rate about 5 – 10%. We have also found that using a larger nozzle but using a 0.4mm size nozzle in the software settings will give you better density.
  • Note: Print at 100% in-fill to achieve full density on your printed parts.

Michigan Tech study on tensile strength of models printed on RepRaps and commercial 3d printers

They found out that the objects can have the same tensile strength.
Study abstract
The recent development of the RepRap, an open-source self-replicating rapid prototyper, has made 3-D polymer-based printers readily available to the public at low costs (<$500). The resultant uptake of 3-D printing technology enables for the first time mass-scale distributed digital manufacturing. RepRap variants currently fabricate objects primarily from acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) and polylactic acid (PLA), which have melting temperatures low enough to use in melt extrusion outside of a dedicated facility, while high enough for prints to retain their shape at average use temperatures. In order for RepRap printed parts to be useful for engineering applications the mechanical properties of printed parts must be known. This study quantifies the basic tensile strength and elastic modulus of printed components using realistic environmental conditions for standard users of a selection of open-source 3-D printers. The results find average tensile strengths of 28.5 MPa for ABS and 56.6 MPa for PLA with average elastic moduli of 1807 MPa for ABS and 3368 MPa for PLA. It is clear from these results that parts printed from tuned, low-cost, open-source RepRap 3-D printers can be considered as mechanically functional in tensile applications as those from commercial vendors.
Study highlights
  • Low costs enable mass-scale distributed digital manufacturing in ABS, PLA.
  • Average tensile strengths of 28.5 MPa for ABS and 56.6 MPa for PLA.
  • Average elastic moduli of 1807 MPA for ABS and 3368 MPa for PLA.
  • RepRaps are as mechanically functional as commercial 3-D printers

DIY 3d printer enclosure made from wood with hair dryer heating element


The enclosure developed by repkid is a simple wooden box made from thin MDF sheets and wooden beams structure. It is insulated by double-ply cardboard glued to the inside of the box. To prevent ABS warping it is heated by simple household hair dryer.


Parts printed inside the heated enclosure on the left, and ABS part printed without heated chamber on the right with warping.


The enclosure with printer inside it


Lasercut thermal vents. They can be done with simple hand tools also


Heater made from simple hair dryer


More advanced version of the enclosure with fumes extractor

Heated chambers for 3d printing are patented by some corporation and I'm not sure what implications patent law has on projects like this one ...


Project on RepRap wiki with more details:

http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Build_Chamber


See other DIY 3d printer enclosures:

Enclosure made from PIR foam and 3d printable hinges:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/03/diy-3d-printer-enclosure-made-from-pir.html

Ultra simple enclosure made from plastic boxes:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/03/low-cost-simple-3d-printer-enclosure.html


Fully 3d printed drone by University of Sheffield AMRC and Boeing




Test flight of a prototype unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), designed and built using fused deposition modelling by the Design & Prototyping Group at the University of Sheffield AMRC with Boeing.
The drones airframe is printed in ABS plastic.

Check out other 3d printed drones.


















Source:

https://www.youtube.com/user/AMRCsheffield?feature=watch

Update:

Now you can read all about this drone project in PDF paper released by the team:

http://www.namtec.co.uk/userfiles/files/Powered_CASESTUDY.pdf


The design is updated to be more 3d printeble on FDM machines, but the parts of the wings are carbon fiber.

There is a new video:




Dissolving PLA support material and leaving ABS untouched with caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide) in ultrasonic tank

PLA and BAS are most used materials in 3d printing. If we used PLA as support meterial, how can it be removed from ABS without damage to ABS? PLA can be dissolved with caustic soda  in ultrasonic tank.

Bertho Boman experimented with various concentrations and presented results on his blog:
This time I tested several different plastic types and varying strength Sodium Hydroxide.
1.0 Molar: 40g per liter water
1.8 Molar: 72g per liter water (same as the video)
3 Molar: 120g per liter water
6 Molar: 240g per liter water
Test Result:
After 5 hours in the ultrasonic tank @ 60°C there was no visual effect or surface hardness change evaluating the samples under a microscope of the different plastic types except the PLA.

http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=162




































Extensive details and experiments with other methods and how to dissolve PLA fast when no other material is involved:

http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=68#more-68


Here is video showing the process with professional ultrasonic tank and caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) that takes 3 hours to remove PLA support material from ABS part. 217 grams is added to 3 liters of water heated at 60C.
Ultrasonic tank used in the video is priced around 1300 USD, but it can be found much cheaper at some 300 USD.




They talk about dissolving PLA in .stl podcast (great podcast btw):



RepRap forums discussion:

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,153508,199753

Proto Pasta carbon, high temperature and polycarbonate alloy PLA / ABS filaments

Proto Pasta has some new filaments with enhanced properties then regular PLA / ABS.



Video from their Kickstarter:

Proto Pasta offers:

Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA

Proto-Pasta Carbon Fiber reinforced PLA is made from NatureWorks 4043D PLA Resin compounded with 15% by weight Tenax short chopped Carbon Fibers. It is designed to be stiff, or to resist bending. It is the stiffest material we offer and makes parts with an incredibly solid feel. When printed, this material is a dark glossy black that glitters slightly in direct light from the fine chopped fibers reflecting the light.
Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA does not require a heated bed and prints much like unreinforced PLA filament. The main difference is that it is brittle and care must be taken when handling the filament and loading the printer.
We have had good results printing at 190C-210C using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head. Layer adhesion is excellent and the material has low warpage.

High Temperature PLA

Proto-Pasta High Temperature PLA is made from a custom compound consisting of mineral filled impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance. To fully realize this advantage, parts must be soaked in hot water or an oven after printing at 60C-80C for 3-5 minutes. This crystallizes the material and makes it much more heat resistant. It does not require a heated bed to print well, but this may help crystallize the material after printing and make oven soaking unnecessary for some parts. High Temperature PLA is a glossy off white, or very light gray. Printed parts look good and have slightly more texture than standard PLA. This material is not translucent like standard PLA.
We have had good results printing at 190C-210C using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head.
Layer adhesion is good and the material has low warpage.
Polycarbonate/ABS Alloy
Proto-Pasta Polycarbonate-ABS (PC-ABS) Alloy is an incredibly tough material designed for strong, resilient parts. When printed, PC-ABS is bright glossy white.
Proto-Pasta PC-ABS Alloy can print well. It is very moisture sensitive and even if stored bagged with desiccant, drying in an oven for ~ 1hr at 85C-95C may be required for bubble free high strength prints. Layer adhesion can be an issue if the part is large or the temperature is too low. We have had good success printing parts ~60mm long at 260C-280C using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head. A heated bed may help warpage and layer adhesion on larger/thicker parts.

Proto Pasta filament properties










They also offer Reusable filament Folding Spool



http://www.proto-pasta.com/

Makeraser - 3d printing tool for smoothing and gluing

Makeraser is a tool that smooths, glues and strengthens 3d printed object by applying acetone or acetone based "ABS juice".  It looks like nifty little simple and useful tool.






http://www.makeraser.com/

Update:

here is the video review of Makeraser:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/02/review-of-makeraser.html

Filaflex filament and link roundup - tests and properties of various filament types

There are more filaments from various materials available for 3d printing then just simple PLA and ABS. Here are some links on news related to filaments ...


Excellent roundup post by NothingLabs on various filaments, how to print with them and their properties:


http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2013/09/filament-roundup-3d-printing-in-all.html

Here is his detailed presentation from google docs: http://tinyurl.com/kq3sbjd


Color changing and magnetic metal infused 3d printing filaments 



http://printm3d.com/filaments/







New flexible material - Filaflex


http://recreus.com/








Hackaday video from Maker Faire 2013:






Extensive test of soft PLA (FlexPLA):


http://algorithmicart.wordpress.com/2013/08/22/3d-printing-with-flexible-materials-flexpla-tests/





ProtoForge 3d printer

Detailed videos of design and build process of new DIY RepRap based 3d printer project: ProtoForge. It looks very high quality built and well designed printer.






From video description:

These are the key features:
Build volume: 300x300x300 mm³ with heated bed up to 110 °C
Material: PLA, ABS, PVA
Dual Print head: 200-300g
Controller: Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.4
Extruder System: bowden extruder with feedrate measurement and control
Housing: rigid aluminum frame and pmma (plexiglas) panels

Main goals:
  • big build volume
  • as fast as possible
  • print quality as good as possible
  • PVA support material


Video source:

DIY 40 $ chamber and effects on 3d print quality

While browsing reddit I found this post by MEOW_POOPY on effects of his DIY 40$ printer chamber on print quality of larger ABS objects. Very informative and worth replicating.  Things printed in chamber look much better and smoother.

His first comment:

Printing on a LulzBot Taz. The two pieces that you see are an Explosive Nitrons from the game Tribes: Ascend.
Both were printed with the same settings. The one on the left was printed in an enclosure and the one on the right was printed outside(inside a garage, outside of an enclosure). It is a little hard to tell but there are actually a lot of cracks on the non-enclosure part.
The enclosure looks like shit but as you can see, it works. Took me about 1.5 hours to build and about $40.00 bucks to build. Almost all of that money went to the poly carbonate front window. I only used half of what I bought so really, its about 20 bucks.



















Original reddit post:

http://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/1kwatm/the_difference_a_4000_dollar_enclosure_can_make/

Upgrade of RepRap automatic printing and model ejection setup (now with ABS)

Sanjay does it again. He upgraded and updated his automatic print and ejection setup he uses for his small business. Now he uses it for ABS to, He runs machines 24 / 7.






Initial post about the project:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/06/reprap-automatic-printing-and-model.html

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