Some people think 3D printing is not a good idea ...

...and they may have some good points. People from Additivism collective focus on general pollution by plastics and critique of consumerist society with more and more stuff being made that severs no purpose ...

Some interesting bits I found in their presentation:

3D printing + spam + micropayments = tribbles
that you get billed for, as it replicates wildly out of control.

90% of everything is rubbish, and it's all in your spare room – or someone else's spare room, which you're forced to rent through AirBnB.

Source: @justinpickard

You can see a more detailed presentation at:

http://additivism.org/transmediale

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Video tutorial on how to use Marlin EEPROM functions

You can store Marlin setting directly in EEPROM memory. On each boot, Marlin will automatically load these settings from EEPROM, independent of what your compiled Configuration.h says.

The Marlin EEPROM settings include the following:

• Steps per mm
• Maximum feedrates [mm/s]
• Maximum Acceleration [mm/s2]
• Acceleration
• Retract Acceleration
• PID settings
• Homing Offset
• Minimum feedrate [mm/s]
• Minimum travel feedrate [mm/s]
• Minimum segement time [ms]
• Maximum X-Y jerk [mm/s]
• Maximum Z jerk [mm/s]

Another excellent tutorial by ZennmasterM! He is producing some high quality video tutorials in field of 3d printing.

Here is also an additional post from Solidoodle wiki about Marlin EEPROM functions: 

http://wiki.solidoodle.com/using-eeprom

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How to clean and remove partial nozzle clogging

You may even not know that your nozzle is partially clogged. Eric William made this excellent tutorial on how to fix partially clogged nozzle and improve 3d print quality.You will need acetone and some tools. But it looks simple to do.

Thank you Eric!

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfACwC9diQY

Update (27.9.2014.):

Here is another video tutorial and method for unclogging the nozzle without disassembly with detailed description at:

http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning

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How to unclog your 3Doodler

Your 3Doodler got jammed up and clogged? Here is easy tutorial how to clean it and unclog the nozzle. You will just need some simple tools and to watch out for heated parts.
Similar principles could be applicable on other 3d drawing pens. Be careful ... always stay safe and read the manual ...

Pliers or multitool always come handy ...

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Ultimaker 2 detailed review by Barnacules

Another great review by Barnacules of Ultimaker 2. He goes trough unboxing, setup, calibration, leveling and first printing. His machine came delivered with on extruder fan broken. The leveling process seems easy with adjustment screws on the bottom of the print bed.

From video description:

The Ultimaker 2
To operate the Ultimaker 2 you don't need any specific technical knowledge. Every part has been redesigned to create one of the highest performing 3D printer available on the market, but also a very reliable one.

Ultimaker 2 specifications
Easy to use and reliable
Designed for non-expert and expert
Larger build envelope
Heated bed
Low cost material
Open source
Just like the Original the Ultimaker 2 will remain open source. We dare to share our knowledge because we believe we can achieve even more when working together.
Easy to use and reliable
To operate the Ultimaker 2 you don't need any specific technological knowledge. With its 49 decibel it's a quiet machine. Because the electronics are bundled the Ultimaker 2 is stable and reliable. With its nice design the Ultimaker 2 is suitable in any working or living interior.
Designed for non-expert and expert
We've made the Ultimaker 2 to be as easy as possible. You don't need to have a huge technological background to understand our printer. At the same time we've developed the printer in a way that it's still interesting for experts to work and create with.
Larger build ratio
We've managed to get an even better print-to-size ratio. This means the printer size has remained the same, and the print envelope became bigger.
Low cost material
Beside the fact that the Ultimaker doesn't use a lot of power, the material you use to print is also low cost. This makes the use of an Ultimaker very affordable.
Layer resolution: up to 20 micron
Build volume: 23 x 22.5 x 20.5 cm
Position precision X Y Z: 12.5 / 12.5 / 5 micron
Print speed: 30 mm/s - 300 mm/s
Travel speed: 30 mm/s - 350 mm/s
Recommended filament diameter: 2.85 mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Stand-alone SD-card printing
WiFi printing ready (future upgradeable)
Software: Cura - Official Ultimaker
Print technology: Fused filament fabrication (FFF)
Frame dimension X Y Z: 35.7 / 34.2 / 38.8 cm (no filament)
Frame dimension X Y Z: 49.2 / 34.2 / 55.8 cm (with filament)
Operation nozzle temperature: 180° - 260° C
Operation heated bed temperature: 50° - 100° C
Ambient operation temperature: 15° - 32° C
Storage temperature: 0° - 32° C
AC input: 100 - 240 V / ~4 AMPS / 50 - 60 HZ / 221 watt max.
Power requirements: 24 V DC @ 9.2 AMPS
Usage cost: ~ €0.05 / cm3 (material and power)

Source:

https://www.youtube.com/user/barnacules1?feature=watch

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Da Vinci 1.0 3d printer by XYZ Printing: introduction, reviews, cartridge hacking and repair

New day, new low cost printer from Asia. The bad thing about many new devices as this one, in my opinion, is that it uses some sort of custom cartridges (update: the cartridges can be hacked now and counter reset: look below)  and custom software. But on other hand, some people like that.

Da Vinci 1.0 technical specifications

• Technology: FFF (FUSED FILAMENT FABRICATION)
• Maximum build volume (WxHxD): 7.8W X 7.8H X 7.8D INCH (20 X 20 X 20 CM)
• Printing Mode: FINE: 0.1 MM (100 MICRONS); STD: 0.2 MM (200 MICRONS); SPEED: 0.3 MM (300 MICRONS); ULTRA FAST: 0.4 MM (400 MICRONS)
• Print Head: SINGLE NOZZLE (dual extruder models are announced by the company in the future)
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4 MM
• Print Speed: 150 MM/s
• Filament Diameter: 1.75 MM
• Print Material: ABS
• Panel Type: 4 X 16 LCM
• Language: ENGLISH, JAPANESE
• Connectivity: USB 2.0
• Net Weight (Cartridges included): 51.9 IB/23.5 KG
• Price: 499 USD
• File Types: .stl, G code, XYZ Format
• OS Supports: Windows XP (.Net 4.0 required), Windows 7+, Mac OSX 10.8 64-bit +

http://www.xyzprinting.com/

Update:

Here are they on CES 2014



Update 2:

da Vinci 2.0 and 2.1 are announced:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/04/da-vinci-20-and-21-3d-printers-announced.html

Update 3:

Here is a full review of Da Vinci 1.0:




Update 4:

da Vinci proprietary filament can be reset and cheaper common standard filament used with cartridges and make the daily operation much cheaper. Here are tutorials, guides and software used for the procedure.

Arduino EEPROM reset:

http://voltivo.com/blog/da-vinci-reset-eeprom

http://www.instructables.com/id/Da-Vinci-10-Filament-Reset/?ALLSTEPS

Here is a reset solution and reseter kits you can buy for some 40 USD: http://wctek.com/xyz/

Is it legal? Is it copyright violation? Does it void guarantee? I don't have a clue ...

LATEST VERSION HACKED: http://www.wb6cqa.com/2016/01/hacking-xyz-davinci-jr.html

Update 5:

Da Vinci announced that hey will start to sell cheaper user replaceable ABS refill filament for their custom cartridges. It will be their filament and they will deliver it with a chip enabling the printer to recognize new spool. The refill will be sold in 25 - 27 USD range for 600g.
The company also announced that they will start to sell PLA filament also.

Here is the product page: http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/ABS

Here is the how-to video:




Video guide on how to replace the nozzle / extruder / printhead on da Vinci 1.0:

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Problems with Prusa Mendel design (or 5 reasons why Prusa Mendel Sucks by MadMaxx)

MadMaxx made this great video describing his experiences with Prusa Mendel. Because he described several problems and raised some questions he received a lot of negative comments on this video.
He did told me on twitter that he was intentionally controversial to start the debate which is important for open source community. Without discussion there is no progress and that is the point that some of his commentators do not understand. They just went into attack mode "HOW DARE YOU TALK ABOUT PROBLEMS!!!!!.




Problems he describes:

1. Hanging Z-axis
2. Two Z-axis motors
3. Lots of wire strain
4. Hard to maintain - easy to mess up 
5. X axis wobble

I don't't have lot of experience with Prusa Mendel, but I read or heard about most of those problems, but never tough of them as design issues. I just never connected the dots.
Many of those problems can be solved with upgrades and later Prusa Mendel designs made improvements to address those issues. And there is the Prusa I3 :-)

Update (11.1.2014.):

Josef Prusa responded to this video:

Hi man,
first, my name is pronounced "proosha".
As you said, its old model, no reason to bitch about it in 2013 you are three years too late ;-)
It is still built as there are thousands of ppl who can help you with it.

Hanging Z axis was made because it transfers less wobble to the print, now with tube couplings, its not needed. Your coupling slid out of the shafts either because they were oversized or you didnt tighten them. Sanding the motor shafts helps a lot too. Your cables broke as you didn't bolt them to the Y carriage or used poor cables. Two motor Z axis is much easier to maintain then the original mendel one, if you would built original mendel, you would know. That thing sucked to calibrate. The x axis wobble is true, but during prints it wasn't affecting the quality too much. ...
Anyway, keep up the good work.

Source:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQuUqd9ldUU

Let's talk abut problems. Criticism is free consulting.

Here are videos by Allen Jetter that describe how he improved his Prusa Mendel and changes / upgrades he made. He invested lot of work and time. It doesn't solve all problems mentioned above and raises some new issues, but it is good illustration on hove to move ahead.

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How to remove model stuck to the print surface

... it's easy: with ice and hammer. BusyBotz has the video tutorial.



He also uses spatula to remove them.

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3D model surface restoration

Excellent mini tutorial by youtube user maxamillionschnell on how to restore and repair 3d printed model bottom surface that has white "ugly" finish on it. If you use acetone on it it will be shiny, and not to mention that acetone is toxic. He uses heat gun to get rid of white stuff and get nice mate finish.

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3d diy printer problemsolving: How to prevent bending when printing big objects

Thanks to youtube user JMEMetzel's instuction video, here is an interesting way to prevent warping or bending when 3d printing large objects on your diy 3d machine. Problem happens when there is a difference in cooling of ABS plastic due to a size of a printed object. He solved it by placing holes and notches to avoid big differences in cooling of large model.

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