Tech2C, an Aussi 3d printing youtube, made this video where he shows how to eliminate and reduce the noise, vibration or rattling for his 3d printer.
He uses a HyperCube 3D Printer but his guide is applicable for almost any machine. Used upgrades are rubber feet, foam insulation, stepper motor dampeners or shock absorbers and TMC 2100 stepper drivers with stealthChop mode.
There is a great comment thread under that video with many additional ideas.
Joe Mike Terranella published a video tutorial on how to change your direct feed extruder system into a Bowden 3D printer. He used his Hictop Prusa clone to change it from direct feed to a Bowden setup but you can see many useful tips that can be used for other machines also.
Here is the full tutorial video:
Full parts list is on the video description but he used this Bowden conversion thing:
Vortex generators are small vanes that are mounted on various vehicles, mostly aircraft, to improve their aerodynamic performance. In theory they could be installed on a car and improve the fuel economy and increase MPG (or lower the liters per 100km for us Europeans). Since they are easy to make and design, there are several 3d printable models. They are also very cheap so you can make dozens for a few dollars.
Samm Shepard 3d printed vortex generators and made road tests with good results. He also explains a science and aerodynamic principles behind it.
Kyle also does a great job in simplifying the science behind it and also has real-life tests with positive results but claims they are only useful on high performance cars.
Autospeed magazine did some testing and achieved positive results in 2006:
Vortex generators on cars can achieve measurable, scientifically proven improvements in car aerodynamics – reducing both lift and drag. The Lancer Evo is probably the shape of things to come – expect vortex generators (of whatever design) to be used on new cars, especially to improve the flow around corners towards the rear of the body.
Positive gains can be achieved only by practical experimentation. That’s the downside – the upside is that the vortex generators are easy to temporarily stick into place with masking tape, and just as easily removed if they are not achieving the desired results. They’re also cheap enough that buying ten or so for experimentation is a good investment.
But they did have some negative results if they were placed on wrong places.
One of the commercial vortex generator producers, AirTab, did some testing and they achieved significant improvements on trucks. Due to their box shape, their aerodynamics is very bad.
Several research papers, like this one by MIRA show that the fuel savings can reach up to 3% with installed vortex generators.
Here are vortex generators mounted on a Sprinter van:
And user experience of RV owner:
Since vortex generators are easy to 3d print and easy to install and uninstall they could be great gadget to experiment with and see if you can save some fuel.
DrDawes forgot to generate supports and used paper cards as shims to save his print. Very useful to remember! Maybe it can also be used to make some more complex geometries.
Video of the technique:
Description:
Today, I ran into another issue. I’ve been printing many items for student projects in my electronics class and got a bit casual about sending files to the printer without looking too closely. I had a full print bed worth of parts running when I realized one part was designed with major overhangs; essentially a flat plate that had some mounting lugs extending up and down from it. The print was already 1/3 through and I didn’t want to kill the job it since most of the print would be fine… but I knew that this part of the print would fail. Staring down this impending problem, I figured I’d try a hack and at least see if I could salvage the print job.
I looked through my gcode in octoprint to see where the overhang would kick in (layer 13 it turns out). Grabbed enough index cards to make a stack about 13*0.25mm high and started cutting. When I had a reasonable set of cards ready to go, I waited for layer 12 and paused the print. I started to stack the cards and tape them down with kapton tape. Based on feel, the layer height wasn’t 0.25mm so I pulled a few cards off the stack until they felt as tall as the existing print.
The results are certainly better than if there wasn’t any support, and I’m actually surprised it worked as well as it did. Surface quality is actually about as good as it is with support; not as nice as it would be if the surface were more even, but I had to have a way to hold the cards in place so the tape strips show up a bit. In the future, I’d just lay down wide strips of masking tape (i.e. blue tape) since I like the finish it gives and I know PLA sticks to it.
An interesting note is that the cards definitely change the heat properties of the bed but that doesn’t seem to have changed the outcome much. I was worried about printing on a cold surface instead of the heated bed but that seems to be an unfounded concern. I suspect ABS may be more picky about this, but the PLA didn’t show any warping.
Dirk Janssen moded his original Ultimaker with food paste extruder based on a large syringe. He started with extruding peanut butter. Follow his Tumblr for future updates, the project is still in the development.
3D printers are becoming so ubiquitous that even the higher-end machines like Form 1 and Form 2 are being used to make gaming projects like this Spacewar setup.
Matt Keeter used electronics and lasers from Form 2 and cover from Form 1, programmed it in Haskell and made a classic video game playable on a hardware of gutted SLA 3d printer.
Here is the hardware connected:
Here is a photo of the projected game objects, link to the video is listed bellow:
Detailed build guide, the code and video of project working can be found at:
I plan to buy a cheap or even second-hand Chinese 3020 or 3040 CNC mill so I looked around to find a way to improve it with parts I already have like Arduino or some simple electronic upgrades. I found two interesting guides:
Upgrading 3020 (and other models) with Arduino, GRBL and CNC Shield V3
As I was researching low cost DLP solutions I found this project by sirocco where he converted his old Delta into DLP SLA 3d printer by putting a projector on the top opening and adding vat resin. Delta configuration looks like good option due to hight.
I'm not sure how he moves his vat with salt water and resin, it could be done by separate mechanism or by some type of vat tray mounted on three points to the Delta frame and moved by existing motors.
Here is a compilation of tutorials on how to hack and tweak your Autodesk Ember DLP 3d printer. It is interesting to see that this machine made by a major corporation can be easily open and tinkered with.
Accessing the control electronics block and USB to control the LCD projector
As always you do this on your own risk! Warranty will probably be voided.
Here is a tutorial on how to increase power of Embers motors, unstuck frozen prints with brute force and make full volume printing easier. Motors will probably have shorter life span. Basic knowledge of electronics is needed.
How to access and control Embers internal Wintech projector via USB for more power and control. In theory it should enable higher speeds. This tutorial also goes into drivers and software.
Standard ATX power supply unites are widely used to give electricity to 3d printers. Instructables user "mfoster" published a very useful tutorial on how to use RasPi and Octoprint to remotely control ATX power supply and enable you to put it in different power modes like standby mode. The hack is easy to perform even by novice users, you need do use some code and conect some wires from Raspberry Pi GPIOs to ATX wiring.
Detailed instructions and the code can be found here:
Matt Defenthaler had an old junked Netgear router and he remembered that it could run OctoPrint since it is based on Python. Most modern routers are actually quite capable small computers that can be upgraded by various open source firmwares to do many things. Matt made it work and documented the process.
Matt used the following setup:
Device: Netgear WNDR3700v1 (it is probably possible to use most OpenWRT compatibele routers but check it)
I participate in project called "Open Network" aka "OtvorenaMreza" where we deploy local mash networks open to public and we mostly use cheap and discarded routers running. The mashing software runs on OpenWRT and some members use them to run sensors, cameras and other interesting stuff, Now there is a new thing we could implement. Kudos Matt!
Steve Graber presents great way to insert metal parts (in his case metal nut-serts) into 3d printed ABS object (it would work with PLA and other probably). He uses hot end mounted on a drill press which heats the metal part which is then melted in the 3d printed part by pressing it downwards. The parts looks almost like commercially produced. The fused metal inserts are probably very strongly bonded into plastic around them. So Steve hacked and merged a hot end and a drill press to create a new tool!
Here is his explanation of the process and his contraption:
James Yong developed a small g-code algorithm to help prevent oozing in dual extruder printing by producing a small barrier to scrape off the oozing filament.
He uses Prusa i3 with double extruder, Slic3r, Marlin firmware and Repetier Host.
On the left you can see a "barricade" that binds oozing filament and on the right the dual 3d printed object that looks very good.
Here is a detailed video of algorithm in action and it really does prevent oozing remains on the printed object and increases print quality:
Here is a video showing a similar purge - wipe wall feature in Makerware 2.3.0.4. but with much higher walls and more filament spending.
I don't own dual extruder machine or have much experience with dual extruders so let me know your opinions and experiences in the comments. Thank you James for sharing the code!
Here is a new project of running a 3d printer with cheap DC servo motors. It was developed by misan from Spain and he used it successfully on x and y axis of his Prusa I3. Dc motors are controlled by Arduino Uno and the project is based on "servostrap" project. DC motors are cheap and can be found and salvaged in recyclable or scrap electronic device such as paper printers and others.
He made the code and bracket designs available. Thnx misan!
Here is a dual extruder solution from 3D Proto where a non-printing extruder is parked outside the print area to prevent oozing which gives better print quality. When a idle extruder is parked outside print area it also gives higher speeds and movement precision to working extruder. It also prevents possible scratching of one extruder on the printed object. Very interesting solution. There are some possible limitations on x-axis due to the width of assembly but it is maybe a minor inconvenience.
Project homepage where more information will be published (with build instructions hopefully):
Lost PLA is method used to produce cement molds for metal casting and it is used mostly with molten aluminum. Desired object is 3d printed in PLA, cast is made around it and the PLA is melted away. The mold is then used for metal casting. Entire process is usually done with a propane gas powered kiln or smelter, and this project used home microwave oven.
The process is simple but you will need to take safety seriously. Object 3d printed in PLA is coated with susceptor that transforms microwaves into heat. Susceptor is made from mixture of silicon carbide, sugar, water, and alcohol. The part is then placed in a mold made of plaster of paris with perlite and heated in an unmodified household microwave to burn out the PLA. A second microwave with a top emitter is used to melt aluminum, which is then poured into the prepared mold. When the metal cools down, the mold is broken to take out the metal part for post-processing
From project description:
Our system uses consumer microwave units to perform burn-out of PLA from molds, and a second microwave to liquify aluminium, to be poured into the mold. 3d printer inspired mechanics will move the aluminium from the microwave, into the target mold under human control across the network, so that there is no risk to the person operating the machine.
What is working and what we're working towards:
What works now is that we are able to successfully melt aluminum inside a microwave and supply our molds to get fine quality crafted aluminium parts. The vision is to automate the process and build machines so that the system can be remotely run by a human being safely from their terminal. Automation will be as simple as two to three machines powered by arduino with minimum axes. One machine will be a forklift to pickup the item and deposit it safely onto a pair of fire bricks. One is a crane to pickup the top from the kiln, and one is a combination of forklift and a x,y table. This will pickup the cup, place over target, and pour through a heated steel funnel into the mold.
Ideally, we see an operator walking to the machine, starting the microwave on the mold & aluminium. When notified the machine is done, the operator can use gloves to pickup and bury the mold in sand, then walk back to their workstation, and pour the aluminum remotely. This will reduce the risk of injury to an operator to near 0, and not require any dangerous gasses to perform the melt. All of the software will be released under the GNU GPL V3 as the project advances, with the hardware designs released under the TAPR OHL.
Detailed project page and build log on hackaday.io:
Here is very detailed video presentation by Julia Longtin on Chaos Computer Club 31th Chaos Communication Congress. It is a great how-to guide on casting high quality 6040 aluminum pieces using a 3D printer and commercially available consumer microwaves
Here is a more detailed guide on how to make and use microwave oven DIY smelter for silver or tin solder:
Revolution is a part of Streettoolbox which is a collaborative platform for activists providing new ways of public expression. It enables you to find opensource instructions for making new tools to put your message in the city in a more playful, creative and impactful way.
Revolution will hack your bicycle into street stamping machine. Spread your massage to to street walking people :-)
Video description with project details and credits:
"Revolution" turns your bike wheel into a rolling stamp. The stamps are 3D printed letters to clip on your wheel with a cable tie. Push the inking roll against the wheel to ink the letters and leave your message on the pavement. You can easily customize and 3D print all the parts you need. All the instructions on http://streettoolbox.wikia.com/wiki/Revolution
Streettoolbox is a collaborative platform for activists providing new ways of public expression. Credits: Concept: Pierre Paslier, Oluwaseyi Sosanya, Rodrigo Garcia Gonzalez D.O.P: Guillaume Couche Editing: Ozgun Kilic Bike: Chan-Yu Ding Thingiverse: Wei-Che Chang Music: Brown Sugar - Persian Empire
Revolution is only one of the tools in Streettoolbox:
