Slip Casting Update

This post is an update to my earlier post on slip casting 3D printed forms. It contains some of the new designs I'm working on and some pictures of the earlier finished pieces.

I've gotten some of the first pieces glazed and fired. The 3D print is on the left. The first glazed/fired sample is on the right. They shrink (about 11-12%) during the first firing. The top gets sanded flat making them smaller still.



Glazing

The first step after firing is to rinse them off. The first firing leaves some residue and you want a clean surface for the glaze to adhere well.

The next stage is to put some wax on the bottom of the pieces so they don't get any glaze there which would stick them to the kiln shelf:

I've come to learn that it's better to put a "foot" on the form. In this way you can glaze all the way to the bottom of the visible form - the foot will hold it up keeping the glaze off the kiln shelf.

I really wanted to experiment with the glazing. At the Ann Arbor Art Center, this is how the glazes are stored - 5 gallon buckets with a brush to stir them up. The solids settle out and need to be mixed back in - it takes a few minutes for some that haven't been used in a while:

The vases get dipped using tongs. The vase in the rear has two dips which overlap. So there will be three different colors. The vase in the front is a solid color from a single dip. Once the glaze has dried it's easy to smooth out the bumps and drips you see. You can also fill in the areas where the tongs hit by just rubbing adjacent glaze into the holes.

Waxing, dipping, brushing, drizzling...

Here are some of the finished pieces:



New Designs

I've also been working on some new designs. The first ones are simple two part molds. This one is shown in the 3D printer at Taubman College Fab Lab.

Here's the printer (on the right):

This is going to be a mug. Quite large in anticipation of the shrinking.

Molds in progress... starting to add the clay to support the form. Note the extra clay around the lip of the cup. This allows the slip cast form to be higher than the final part. It can then be sanded down flat to get it to touch the points at the top of the design. That's necessary because the slip cast form is often uneven at the very top. This also seals the cup against the cottle board so no plaster can flow in.

Fully embedded in the clay. Need to seal the vertical edges and it's ready to pour.

First half done - very crisp detail:

Here's the first one just out of the mold. After it hardens a bit I need to fix the seams, sand the top edge down, and clean it up.

Here are a few of the originals and the new forms ready to bisque fire. I've found a card scraper is really good at shaving the dry clay into a flat plane - perfect for cleaning up the seams:

Here are three after glazing:

Here's another design - about 7.5" tall. It was printed at Shapeways. The Shapeways PLA prints are a little crisper than the ABS prints at Taubman. I actually prefer the ABS plastic for slip casting though. They are harder and clean up easier.

I added a foot after printing (a scrap piece of cherry glued on). Doing this after the printing is better because the print won't require support material at the bottom - the foot would require a large cantilever of the form outside the foot:

This one needs a three part mold. Here are the set-up for the three mold parts and the result:

So the form is buried more than half way - keeping about 120 degrees of the form exposed to the plaster:

Next another third of the form is blocked off. This is ready to pour:

Set up for the final pour which completes it:

The three resulting parts:

Some more pieces getting fixed up for bisque firing - the three piece mold ones take a fair amount of work:

And after bisque firing:

One in bright blue and another in a green/blue:
 

Belle Kogan Slip Cast Forms

I went to a small exhibition at the University of Michigan of the slip casting work of industrial designer Belle Kogan (1902-2000). Here are some pictures of the work. These pieces are from the collection of Bernard and Barbara Banet of Ann Arbor, Michigan.

I love the geometric aspect to some of these pieces, in particular her Prismatique line. These are all two or three piece molds. I find these pieces very inspiring.
Vase, 1962

Vase, 1962

Compote, 1962

Compote, 1962

Vase, 1938

Pitcher Vase, 1938

Vases, 1938

 Gladiolus Vase, 1952

Double Vase, 1953

I was so fond of Belle's work I had to pick one up for myself - off eBay. They are plentiful and cheap as they were mass produced.



3D Printed DIY Battery Packs from Old Laptop Batteries

I found two old discarded batteries from HP and Lenovo laptops I owned which did not hold the charge and I was wandering what to do with them. I googled and found that they may actually hold 18650 battery cells that are still in working order. If the internal battery management system detects that even one of usually six cells is not in line with working parameters it will probably shut down the entire battery.

"Dead" laptop batteries. Used force and screwdriver to open them. Watch your fingers, you will need them trough entire life. You can see the 18650 LiPo modules in blue and green.

































I discovered that there a hundreds of projects using the same refurbished module ranging from simple cell phone power packs to large solar system batteries.

Here is a tutorial on how to make a replacement hand drill battery pack with 3d printer and 18650 modules from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1042761:



Here is a tutorial on how to create a larger battery pack with 3d printed frame modules for storage of solar power that can be used in small electric vehicles:




Thingiverse page:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1320696

There is large number of 3d printed projects with 18650 battery modules:

http://www.thingiverse.com/tag:18650/page:1

Also take a look at: http://www.instructables.com/howto/18650/

Do keep in mind that you will have to test each module and that there will be some that are just dead and can not be used.

Since you can make battery of any size, you can literally make a Tesla powerwall equivalent for a fraction of the originals 3500+ USD price. This guy made a DIY Tesla powerwall for some 300 USD:





Think about it: a battery for your entire house for just 300 USD made from junk old laptop batteries. You will probably have many many questions so I strongly recommend checking the entire content on Jehu Garcia YT channel. This guy is a battery guru!

Soon I'm going to visit our regional electronic waste processing company in town of Slavonski Brod to see if they can give me more old laptop batteries to salvage the 18650 modules.

Do you have any experiences with 18650 batteries or any projects you made? Let me know in the comments!

Precious Plastic DIY Plastic Recycling Machinery

Dave Hakkens developed a great set of open sourced DIY machines for recycling plastic. There are several machines including a 3d printing filament extruder. Every device is well documented with manuals, open sourced and uses simple and easy to find components. There is a shredder, extruder, injection molding machine and compression forming chamber.

here is the promotional video:




You can learn something about many types of plastics, which are everywhere! Like difference between thermoplastics and thermoset plastics:




3D printing filament extruder demo:




Here is a video explaining how you build it:



Here are some things you can make with recycled plastic, ranging from lamp shades to building blocs:



Project homepage where you can learn how to build each machine and about the plastics as a material:

http://preciousplastic.com/en/

You can find all the documentation on:

https://github.com/hakkens

Now, recycling plastics is great idea and useful skill to have, but will it decrease the usage of plastics in general? I do not have the data, but i have strong doubts that it will not. There is a something called Jevons paradox that notes that the more efficiently we use a resource, the rate of a consumption of that resource will increase.  Think about it ....



BTW: Dave is a very cool guy, do check his youtube channel: https://youtube.com/user/hakopdetak

Here is his pro-tip video on how to get organized as a DIY / Hacker / Maker guy with industrial plastic crates:

Prusa I3 Mk2 released!!!

Prusa I3 Mk2 was just released and it looks great! Many new improvements in a proven design!

Here is a presentation by Josef Prusa:



New key features in Mk2:
  • 31% bigger build volume - 10500 cm3 (25 x 21 x 20 cm)
  • Open frame design for easy use
  • Integrated LCD and SD card controller (8GB included)
  • Up to 40% faster printing thanks to the geniune E3D V6 Full hotend
  • 0,4mm nozzle (easily changeable) for 1,75 mm filament
  • Layer height from 50 microns
  • Automatic mesh bed levelling
  • Heated print bed for warpless 3D printing from any material
  • Hassle free PEI print surface - no glass, no glue, no ABS juice
  • Supported materials – PLA, ABS, PET, HIPS, Flex PP, Ninjaflex, Laywood, Laybrick, Nylon, Bamboofill, Bronzefill, ASA, T-Glase, Carbon-fibers enhanced filaments, Polycarbonates...
  • Easy multicolor printing
  • 1 kg (2 lbs) PLA filament included
  • Average power consumption 50 W (printing PLA) or 90 W (printing ABS), exterior dimensions 42 x 42 x 38 cm (16.5 x 16.5 x 15 inches), weight 6,5 kg (14 lbs), CE certification
  • Specially optimized firmware for quiet printing
  • Slicer support includes Windows 10
I like it! Probably my next purchase! 

Prusa I3 Mk2 homepage news release with more information:


You can pre-order it here:




DICE: small, fast and strong!

Rene Jurack developed the DICE, a small surprise among all the simillar designs of new machines. It is compact, very rigid and very fast featuring many interesting solutions.




Check out the technical specifications, you will be intrigued:

Mechanical:
  • casing: 20x20x20cm small 
  • build volume: X90 Y75 Z 80 
  • movable distance: X98 Y75 Z80, so the print head can move beside the print bed, e.g. for anti-ooze-scripts at print start core XY-system 
  • linear movement with high quality linear rails (HIWIN MGN9R) in X, Y, Z full metal hotend E3D-V6 1,75mm in bowdensetup 
  • PEI-coated perma-printbed made out of precision-milled warmcasted aluminium ( EN AW 5083 ) and recessed silicone heater  direct-drive-extruder (MK8) 
  • massive enclosure milled out of 4mm thick akuminium, all bores in DXF included
  • XY-plain is laser cut out of 2mm thick stainless steel sheet, all bores in DXF included 
  • enclosure-sheets are conceived as load-bearing and stiffing parts, but can be dismantled all together without the printer falling apart. 
  • all parts are designed in a way to make adjustings easy and the components inside accessible. 
  • all parts are designed to use only one needed manufacturing technique (lasercutting) and are repeating and symmetrically
Electrical:
  • AZSMZ-mini 32bit-controllerboard with smoothieware firmware 
  • 4x most silent TMC2100 stepperdrivers, passive cooled 
  • despite the small footprint, use of full-fledged NEMA17 steppermotors for sufficient output reserve 
  • heated bed (230V / 60W), with recessed silicone heater 
  • motor supply voltage: 19V 
  • total power input: 230V / 0,65A at max
Miscellaneous:
  • more silent than 40dB in realistical and normal operation (unadorned measures!) 
  • up to 833mm/s travelspeed 
  • up to 12.000mm/s² acceleration 
  • not until 10.000mm/s² acceleration and 100mm/s, ghosting becomes barely visible 
  • junction deviation up to 0,5mm tested 
  • the complete X-carriage (real print-setup) weighs only 160g 
  • the complete X- and Y-carriages with all mounted parts (real print-setup) weighs only 290g 
  • Hotend mounted with 2 screws, fast interchangeable 
  • bowdenlength is only 35cm (complete from MK8 to the thermal barrier in the hotend)

Here are some basic videos showing the DICE working:





Instructables page with extremely detailed build log including step-by-step videos for each segment (German language with english subtitles):


Project homepage:


Price is unknown but detailed BOM exists. 

DID YOU KNOW, there are Advance Editing Features in NCSIMUL MACHINE you may not have heard of?

With NCSIMUL MACHINE, you can expedite the correction of your G-code errors in no time.

NCSIMUL MACHINE does so by providing an extensive list of advanced editing features that
 allow you to edit on the spot and see changes in real time- allowing you to execute programs that
are much more accurate and efficient.

For example, the MDI (Manual Data Input): A dynamic feature in NCSIMUL MACHINE that
 corrects codes on the fly and splices in G-code that has been missed, or incorrectly posted.


Our May 27th Webcast will demonstrate where to find, how to use the MDI and 3 other great features included in NCSIMUL SOLUTIONS. So please keep an eye out for that and make sure to register.



NCSIMUL SOLUTIONS
Increase your shopfloor productivity & reduce your costs !
NCSIMUL CAM
All-in-one CNC programming solution
NCSIMUL MACHINE
CNC machining simulation

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