Showing posts with label arduino. Show all posts
Showing posts with label arduino. Show all posts

3D Printable Low Cost Servo Based RobotQuad

If you have some extra cheap servos and an Arduino you can use them to make this open source quadruped RobotQuad. It was developed by Regis Hsu and as open source project and its design is updated frequently. It should be a very affordable thing to build as all the servos needed will cost some 20 USD.
In the linked Instructable there are also possibilities to make a remote control unit and IR obstacle detection.

Here is the version 3.0 whit some dance music:




Detailed build instructions can be found at:

https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Spider-RobotQuad-robot-Quadruped/

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1009659


Hari Wiguna made a video about his build:





I really like the DIY aesthetics of this robot:


3D Printable Control Unit with 32 Programmable Keys

Here is a very useful DIY 3d printable control unit that can send custom g-code scripts and macros via 32 programmable keys. It can be used on almost any machine that uses g code, like CNC mills, 3d printers, laser cutters and other. It is powered with Arduino Nano. 

The "Gcode Sender" was developed and released by James Sierra. Here is his description of the project:
This project is very much like using Pronterface or Repetier Host manual control to send gcode instructions to your printer while connected to the computer via USB cable, but instead using an Arduino Nano connected to a small keypad to send the Gcode scripts/macros.
Gcode sender is intended to work for 3D printers as well as a CNC mills and laser engravers. Any machine that uses gcode.
This setup allows one to send highly customized gcode scripts/macros to the printer with a push of a button. I've tested all of the scripts I included in the sketch. Any one of them can be replaced or edited.
In the sketch, i tired to include a lot of comments to make it easier to tweak the code to suit your own needs.
Communication between Gcode Sender and printer is through serial communication (Tx, Rx). On RAMPS style boards the AUX-1 port can be used. Specifics on wiring can be found in the Wiring.zip file. Be sure that Tx out wire on the Gcode Sender is connected to Rx on printer and Rx is connected to Tx. In Repetier firmware, I had to enable Bluetooth serial port to make use of the AUX-1 port.






























All files and instructions to make it yourself can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2105847

Hack a Coffee Maker into a Delta 3D printer

Tropical Labs team made a coffee maker into a Delta 3d printer. Interesting hack. Tropical Labs engineers have been developing a flexible design for ultra-affordable 3D printers and this a part of their efforts.




























Video of the Delta printing:




Printer features:

  • Coffee maker, Tropical Labs used an old Norelco 12 model they found at a thrift shop, but any coffee maker with a hot plate could potentially work 
  • Arduino Mega 2560
  • RAMPS 1.4
  • A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier
  • Nema 17 stepper motors
  • Home switches, optical or otherwise
  • 3D printer hot end/extruder – again, any kind will do; Tropical Labs snagged theirs on eBay
  • 12V power supply
  • Solid state relay (Fotek SSR-40 or similar)
  • Ball joints
  • 4-40 threaded rod


Project homepage:

http://tropical-labs.com/index.php/3d-printers/coffee-maker-delta

Source:

https://hackaday.io/project/11346-coffee-maker-delta-3d-printer

DIY Gauss Meter with 3D Printed Enclosure

Anthony aka. "Proto G" published this Instructable where he made a useful DIY Gauss meter which is controlled with Arduino Nano. 

Project description:
In this instructable, I will show you how to make a Gauss meter than can measure the strength of magnets so you can compare different magnets you have. It measures the magnets in units called Gauss and has a relatively linear range from 0-4000 Gauss. It will measure beyond that but the numbers beyond 4000 Gauss should only be used for comparison purposes. In addition to measuring the field strength, it also detects the polarity of the magnet and will show North or South, respectively. My favorite part about this design is the ON/OFF switch. It's hidden in the enclosure so the meter can only be turned on and off with a magnet. Since this unit is meant to measure magnets, you're sure to have one on hand. You can use the same latching magnetic switch I designed for many other things like a secret compartment lock. Here's a video showing the complete assembly:




You can see the full construction manual at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Dual-Sensor-Gauss-Meter/



Make your own 3D printable handheld tractor beam emitter

Asier Marzo, a researcher at Bristol University, made this amazing project where you can make your own DIY handheld tractor beam. Currently it holds only small objects like liquid droplets or small insects.
It is Arduino controlled, cheap to make and uses ultrasonic sound emitters to produce the tractor field. You can make it for some 70 USD and with basic electronics skills. Ideal educational or school science project.


Here is a video of the device in action with some construction instructions:






It is like simplified home made sonic screwdriver from Doctor Who :-) Here you can see a small red liquid droplet floating in 3d printed sphere that holds ultrasonic transducers.























Step-by-step build guide with all the files and the code:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Acoustic-Tractor-Beam/

Detailed research paper with the science behind it and device design:

http://aip.scitation.org/doi/full/10.1063/1.4972407


You can also find different type of the same device developed by the same author. It is a horizontal 3d printedplate array of ultrasonic emitters that make small objects levitate.



Robotic Painting with Light

I got interested in trying to "paint" with light. That is, use long exposure photography with a moving light source to generate images. The concept is simple: if you put a camera on a tripod, turn off all the lights, open the camera shutter and keep it open, move a light source around in front of the camera, then close the shutter, you'll wind up with a single image of the light moving in one continuous stream.

If you carefully choreograph the color changes, motion, and turning on and off of lights via software you can generate some interesting "light paintings".

What started me on this idea was some work we do in my Robotics course in Taubman College at the University of Michigan. Here's a post on that: Robot Motion Analysis Using Light.

Hardware

My plan for this required a robot to move the lights around, and some hardware to control the light. I'm using an 8 x 8 array of lights: NeoPixels from Adafruit. This is a really nice unit and only requires 3 pins from the Arduino.

The lights are really bright (understatement) and the programming of them is very easy. The micro-controller hardware which controls the lights is an Arduino Mega (an Uno would be fine as well) with the WiFi Shield. The image below shows the beginning of the prototype. As you can see the wiring is very simple (one resistor, one capacitor and the light array):

The robot used is a Kuka Agilus KR-6. I used the back robot in this picture.

The design of the tool which mounts to the robot looks like this, in model form (pixels, prototyping board, and Arduinos from top to bottom):

The finished tool ready to mount: 

And mounted to the robot: 

Software

This works using Grasshopper and Kuka|prc to control the robot, sample the image, and send the code to the Arduino to drive the pixels.

My first idea was to take any image (photograph, picture of a painting, etc), sample it at points which exactly match the LED light panel pixel spacing, then use that sampled data to illuminate the light grid. Those lights form one small part of the overall image. The robot moves the light array and shows new colors each time.

Single LED light panel (yellow) with 6x6 grid of robot moves (blue):

Sampled points in the image (these are the lower left corner of the LED light panel).

Robot moves in a 6x6 grid with different colors each time:

All the coordination of motion and data is managed through Grasshopper. Here's the definition - as you can see it's pretty simple - not many components. The light blue is the robot control. The light cyan generates the Arduino code:

The Grasshopper definition lets you generate a preview of what the pixelated image will look like with baked Rhino geometry. Here are a few examples:

Van Gogh's Starry Night:

A Self-Portrait:

The robot sequence is this:
  1. Move to a new position. 
  2. Turn on the lights. 
  3. Pause for a bit to expose the image. 
  4. Turn off the lights. 
  5. Repeat until the entire image is covered. 
My first pass at this loaded all the color data, for every move, into the Arduino memory at the start. The very low memory capacity of an Arduino, even a Mega, made only 30 or so moves possible. I wanted more than that, so I changed to using a Arduino WiFi Shield and transmit the color data to the tool at each motion stop point. This places no memory limit on the size of the area that's covered.

Interfacing with the PLC

A robot has something called a Programmable Logic Controller (PLC). This is what allows the robot to interface to external inputs and outputs. Some example inputs are things like limit switches, and cameras. Outputs are things like servo motors and warning lights.

A program can also use the PLC to find out about the state of the robot - the current position and orientation of the tool, joint angles, etc.

For this project the PLC is used to track when the robot is moving. This is done by having the robot program set a bit of memory in the PLC to indicate the robot has arrived at a new position. Then it waits for a short amount of time (as the lights are turned on). Then that memory bit is turned off.

The Grasshopper definition monitors the PLC and informs the Arduino when to turn on and off. It also sends the new color data over WiFi.

First Test Images

The first attempts were interesting. It proves the concept works - which was very exciting to see for the first time. But they also clearly show there is room for improvement!

Here's the gradient example. I cropped this image wide so you can see the context - robot workcell, robot in the background, window behind, etc. The robot moved the light array 36 times to produce this image. So that's 36 moves times 64 pixels per move or 2304 pixels total. The tool was slightly rotated which results in the grid varying a bit. That's an easy fix - but it's interesting in the image below because it makes it very clear where each move was.

Here's a self portrait. You can see a variation in the color intensity between the moves of the robot. I realized this is because the robot is not staying in each location for the same time. That's because the robot checks if it should move every 200ms. And the exposure time is only 500ms. So when the robot is triggered to move early the exposure can be nearly 40% different. This is also an easy fix - I'll just sample every 10ms. The PLC also supports interrupt driven notifications - which would be even better.

Here's a portion of Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring. This image again shows the variation in intensity. It also shows where colors get very dark the variation in RGB intensity of the pixels can become an issue. Amusingly she has red-eye! Obviously in all the images more pixels are needed to make them look good. That's accomplished with more robot moves but also with moving between the pixels. It's possible to quadruple the resolution of each of these images by simply moving into the space between the pixels and update the color values.

Van Gogh's Starry Night. With many more pixels this could be a nice image. It would also be interesting to experiment with moving the robot back a foot or so, reducing the intensity, and sweeping the robot with the lights on but the colors changing. So you'd have an overlay of the two. You could get a layered look, and a depth, and a sense of motion.


Next Steps

I'll be doing more with this in the future. One goal is to see if I can make Chuck Close style images. Here's an example of one of his self portraits:

His work is much, much more interesting (more examples are available here). Each cell in the image is multi-colored. Also the rectangular array of cells is rotated 45 degrees rather than vertical and horizontal. His cells are also not all circular - but elliptical and triangular. My plan is to put the correct color in the center of each cell. Then generate a new color and move that in a circle around the center point. His cells have 3 or 4 colors each, and also cross the cell boundaries as he sees fit. That I cannot do. But it'll be interesting to see how far I can get.

It's also possible to leave the LEDs on and move the robot. Or move the robot through space as to generate 2D images of painting in 3D. I'll be experimenting with many techniques (software changes) and I'll have another updated post in the future.

Other Methods

See this post for some other experiments I've done: Robotic Painting with a Line of Lights.

Low Cost 3D Printable Eye Movement Tracker

Crazy Eyes. Is this art? Is this science? Is this just a joke? It could actualy have many uses ...

Project description:
The project consist in developing a lightweight wearable/portable animatronic system that track the user's eyes and moves in real time a pair of robotic eyes in response to the users eye movement, "looking" at the same place where the user looks. The device should be ultra low cost ( under $30 ), DIY-able, and easy to be included in costumes, cosplay, Halloween props or any crazy devices that the user can think of.






























They are actualy working:



Project homepage:

https://hackaday.io/project/13156-crazy-eyes

Star Track 3D Printable DIY Astronomy Pointer and Tracker

Görkem Bozkurt developed an Arduino powered astronomy pointer and tracker that can be made on a DIY 3d printer.
It could probably be customized to move a small telescope or asrophotography setup.

He described his project as:
Star track is an Arduino based, GoTo-mount inspired star tracking system. It can point and track any object in the sky(Celestial coordinates are given as input) with 2 Arduinos, a gyro,RTC module,two low-cost stepper motors and a 3D printed structure.

Do keep in mind that lasers are dangerous and that there are strict laws against pointing at airplanes.




Very detailed build guide can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Star-Track-Arduino-Powered-Star-Pointer-and-Tracke/



3D Printed and Laser Cut Open Source DIY Air Purifier

Ian van Mourik, a product designer from the Netherlands developed and open sourced an air purifier anyone can make. It is autonomous since it is controlled with Arduino and uses simple fans to move air trough particle filters and activated carbon.
It costs around 70 Euro. It has some laser cut parts from plywood but you could cut them manually or use different structural support since they are mostly decorative.
Looks like a great solution to improve your home air quality by removing dust and destroy mold particles or pollen (which I'm allergic to). Just keep in mind to change the filters or upgrade them with HEPA. Carbon filters get used up relatively fast.

Here is the video presentation:




Detailed build instructions can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/OPEN-SOURCE-AIR-PURIFIER/


3d printed air purifier parts that hold carbon and dust filters with fans that push the air

BCN3D Moveo Open Source 3D Printed Robotic Arm

BCN3D presents Moveo, a fully 3d printable open source robotic arm. Another step toward fully robotic world where we puny humans will be free of any work :-)




From project description:

BCN3D Technologies keeps taking important steps in order to achieve his goal of bringing the digital manufacturing technology to everyone. In this occasion we are presenting the BCN3D Moveo, a robotic arm design from scratch and developed by our engineers in collaboration with the Departament d’Ensenyament from the Generalitat de Catalunya.
Its structure is fully printed using additive manufacturing technologies and its electronics are controlled by the software Arduino. The BCN3D Moveo has 5 axis.
Moveo, fully functional nowadays, has been born, as all the BCN3D Technologies products, with an open and educational wish.
As we have done with all our developed pordutcs, the BCN3D Moveo files will be available for everyone. Thanks to the platform Github, a website where users around the world share their designs, anyone will be able to obtain all the necessary information in order to assemble his own BCN3D Moveo at home.
Nevertheless, BCN3D will fee all the Moveo know how on our Github account, as we have been doing with all the BCN3D Technologies products. Thus, the users will be able to find the bill of material (BOM), where all the needed components for the assembling of the arm come detailed, as the CAD designs, so anyone will be able to modify the BCN3D Moveo design as they wish.
Furthermore, the Github users will find the STL files for the structure printing and the assembling, fine tuning and firmware upload manuals, which will be available both in English and Spanish.

Download the BCN3D Moveo CAD files, the STL files, the assembly and user manual and the Bill of Materials on our Github: https://github.com/BCN3D

Project homepage: https://www.bcn3dtechnologies.com/en/bcn3d-moveo-the-future-of-learning/



"Super Make Something" Tutorial On How To Build a Simple 3D Scanner

This youtube channel gives a step-by-step tutorial on how to make a simple 3d scanner with 3d printed parts and IR sensors. It outputs the scan data on a SD card which you can then turn into 3d model using MATLAB. The results are somewhat rough and you will need one custom electronic board but it is a nice learning projects.

Here is the tutorial video:



STL files can be found here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413891

Full code and board design can be found in video description.



How to make a simple 3d printed snake robot

Nikodem from Poland made a very good tutorial on how to make a 3d printed snake robot. It actualy uses a worm equivalent movement , but hey snake sounds cooler :-)

Here is the build instruction video:



Detailed step-by-step guide and all the files can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Snake-Robot/?ALLSTEPS



Tribed Print Bed Autocalibration

Jeremie Francois developed his own method of automatic print bed leveling and calibration by using some force sensors, Arduino to communicate with modified Marlin firmware and three Z-axis lead screws.

Here are videos of his set-up in action:






Project homepage with detailed guide:

http://www.tridimake.com/2015/12/tribed-fully-automatic-bed-leveling-and-z-offset-adjustment.html

The project is still in development and further improvements are expected.

Source:

http://hackaday.com/2016/01/31/tribed-3d-printer-configuration-doesnt-ever-need-to-be-leveled/

FSR sensor on the bottom plate next to a Z screw





























You can learn more about Force Sensing Resistors here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Force-sensing_resistor

SparkRover Open Source 3D Printable Robotic Rover

SparkRover is an open source rover powered with Arduino with Bluetooth connectivity so it can be controlled with a smartphone. Its structure and wheels are 3d printed.
It was developed by Instructables user Dominick Lee who described the main areas where this small rover can be used:

  • Robotics Learning Platform
  • GoPro Automatic Camera Dolly
  • Panorama Camera Assistant
  • Maze Solving Robot
  • Robot Racing




























SparkRover parts list:


  • 3D Printed Parts (1x - SparkRover Chasis, 1x - Cover for the Chasis, 2x - Front Wheel, 2x - Back Wheel)
  • 2x of 55mm O-Rings
  • 2x of Futaba S3003 Servo pack (contains a servo, servo horns, screws, etc.)
  • HC05 Bluetooth module
  • Arduino Nano v3
  • 26 AWG stranded wire (or jumper wires)
  • Push button latch switch
  • Small 3.7v LiPo battery
  • 3.7v to 5v Step-Up chip
  • Ultrasonic sensor

Detailed construction guide, .stl files and guidance software can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/SparkRover-3D-Printed-Smartphone-Controlled-Robot/?ALLSTEPS


Zowi Open Source 3D Printed Robot

Zowi is an open source robot developed by Javier Isabel. It is small, simple and cheap to make so it's ideal for education. Since it uses an Arduino or a simillar controller it is very hackable and programmable.




It uses the following vitamins:
  • 4 Futaba 3003 servos or compatibles
  • 6 M3x10 Bolts (ISO 4762)
  • 2 M3x10 Bolts (ISO 10642)
  • 8 M3x12 Bolts (ISO 4762)
  • 8 M3x16 Bolts (ISO 4762)
  • 22 M3 nuts (ISO 4032)
  • 1 BQ ZUM BT328 or Arduino
  • 4 x 2 AAA Battery holder
  • 8 AAA bateries
All the files and instructions to make it can be found at:

https://github.com/bqlabs/zowi

Different modifications and designs submitted by the community can be found at:

https://github.com/bqlabs/zowi/tree/master/mods/


One of the visually more interesting modifications developed by the community

Zowi is further development of BOB robot.

Ardumower Arduino Controlled 3D Printable Lawn Mover

Andreas Haeuser developed a 3d printable lawn mover. It is controlled by Arduino and looks easy to build on any FDM machine with some electronics knowledge.































Tech specs from the project page:
The 3d printed ardumower works on the same principle as its commercial counterparts, which can be bought for a lot of money at most hardware stores. It drives in the inner space of a “boundary wire fence” (BWF). If it comes close to this it stops, turns and then it goes on mowing your lawn continuously. The ardumower is well tested for a lawn size up to 500m². If your lawn is bigger you need a second battery or you should print a second ardumower.

In addition to a 3D printer and the needed filament (ABS and PLA) for printing the parts, only a few tools and resources are needed to build the chassis. These are mainly common hobbyist tools. You do not need a lathe or a milling machine. Every common 3d printer with a build volume of minimum 180mm x 180mm x 60mm (x,y,z) is suitable.

The ardumower is driven by two 12V geared motors. The cutting device is made from a 12V DC-motor and a cutter disc with a diameter of 220mm. The power comes from rechargeable 12V NiMH or 11,1V LiPo batteries.



You can get all the details and purchase the construction manual with all the files for 9,99 euro:

http://www.reprap-windturbine.com/index.php?id=20&L=1

3D Printable 3D Drawing Stylus for Motion Tracking Systems

EpicJefferson published a full tutorial on how to make Arduino based 3d drawing pen with 3d printed enclosure. It can sedn data to other software like Processing and uses an external motion tracking system (like Optitrack in the video)




Full build guide and all the files can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-3D-Drawing-Stylus/?ALLSTEPS

Here you can clearly see the internal electronics, battery and 3d printed shell with motion tracking points on the cap.




ESP8266 Controlled Kame 3D Printed Quadruped Robot

Kame is an open source small four-legged robot which is controlled by ESP8266 WiFi module. It has 8 servos with two motors per leg and a small LiPo battery. ESP8266 module is very cheap and this project could be ideal for a educational setting and various experiments.


Kame can walk:



Kame can jump:



Kame Thingiverse page with all the files:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1265766


Full FreeCAD files and code is also available at:

https://github.com/bqlabs/miniKame



Multistruder DIY Filament Extruder

Multistruder is a new Arduino controlled filament extruder that can enable you to make your filament directly from the pellets.

KS video:




Project description from the project page:

How is the Multistruder Different From Other Filament Extruders:
  • The Multistruder is designed to do be a multi purpose plastic extrusion tool. In other words it is designed to do more than just make filament. This is done by swapping out modular parts on the extruder (ex: Injection Molder (hint hint)). More details coming soon.
  • Open source and easily modable Arduino microcontroller "brain" making it very user friendly to control and configure and the ability to add various expansion modules to give you better extrusion performance.
  • Only need to interact with the Arduino brain. Then the Arduino sends those instructions to everything else.
  • TFT Full Color Touchscreen is included standard for easy realtime feedback and complete user friendly control of your extruder (Almost like using a phone)
  • All Metal Construction making for a durable extruder allowing for a long service life and less issues in the long run while still allowing ease of modability for the user.
  • Drive Motor Control allowing for precise control of extrusion speed.
  • Expansion Module support for spoolers, diameter control, etc. Whether you make your own or you buy them. 
  • Multiple vertical mounting options.
  • The Multistruder comes 95% ready to go (as well as tested) out of the box all you have to do is install it in your work space, add plastic then your ready to extrude filament.
  • Vertical Space Saving design: estimated to take up about 15" H x 15" L 6" W
  • SOMETHING IS REQUIRED TO MEASURE DIAMETER OF FILAMENT EX. CALIPERS.

Specs Of Prototype ( Production version > Prototype version):
  • Extrusion Speed: <~3 feet per minute (extrusion speed will be tuned by controller to get filament diameter consistency).
  • 1 Kg Spool: <~ 8 Hours
  • RPM: ~10 RPM
  • Torque: ~167 kg.cm
  • 1.75mm extrusion cap (you can ask for 1.75mm or 3.00mm)
  • 110 Watt Heater + 5 Watt Controller + 24 Watt Motor = so max = ~139 Watts. True wattage is alot less than 139 around 84 as the heater band is not always on
  • ~2 Cents/hour operating cost at 15 Cents/kWh
  • Extrusion Temp: up to ~400C

Here is a Multistruder development blog:

http://www.thegreenengineers.com/index.php?/blogs/blog/1-multistruder-dev-blog/

They had a successful KS campaign:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1718006136/multistruder-filament-extruder/description



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