Showing posts with label problemsolving. Show all posts
Showing posts with label problemsolving. Show all posts

DIY 3D Print Error Correction System

Chris Barr from Australia developed his own error correction system using magnetic encoders that recognizes that 3d print went wrong and then tries to correct the problem.

Chris writes:
At the moment, I’m using a linear magnetic encoder IC from AMS (the AS5311) on a small PCB I’ve designed, along with an ATmega328 to track the axis motion and implement I2C communication (also on the same IC).
This seems to be a relatively robust solution, and the encoder can track axis motions up to about 350mm/s – which I think covers speeds reached by most 3D printers.
Printer firmware is Marlin, with a few new bits I’ve thrown in to get this working.

Here you can see it working when Chris forcefully pushes the extruder by hand:





Project homepage:

http://chrisbarrbuilds.com/2016/04/3d-printer-error-detection/

You can find his code for this system at:

https://github.com/Aus3D/MarlinDev



Detailed Ultimaker Troubleshooting Guide

If you own an Ultimaker or a simillar machine, you will find this very detailed troubleshooting guide very useful. It describes all possible problems and how to solve them.

Here is an example of "Pillowing", problem I didn't even know existed:


Full guide can be found at:

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Hacking Autodesk Ember

Here is a compilation of tutorials on how to hack and tweak your Autodesk Ember DLP 3d printer. It is interesting to see that this machine made by a major corporation can be easily open and tinkered with.

Accessing the control electronics block and USB to control the LCD projector




As always you do this on your own risk! Warranty will probably be voided. 


Here is a tutorial on how to increase power of Embers motors, unstuck frozen prints with brute force and make full volume printing easier. Motors will probably have shorter life span. Basic knowledge of electronics is needed.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Supercharge-Your-Ember/

How to access and control Embers internal Wintech projector via USB for more power and control. In theory it should enable higher speeds. This tutorial also goes into drivers and software.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Setting-Ember-for-More-POWER-or-how-to-control-the/

Here is some research and testing on how will the PDMS tray window clouding influence exposure time:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Window-clouding-in-the-Ember-printer/

... and to maintain the Ember resin tray: http://www.instructables.com/id/Resin-Tray-Care/

If you want to use different resins in Autodesk Ember, here is a guide on how to set it up and calibrate it:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-tune-Embers-print-settings-for-new-resins/

... and to calibrate the head: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Calibrate-Embers-Print-Head/

Here is simple guide on how to update Embers firmware:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-update-Embers-firmware/

You can find several more on Instructables: http://www.instructables.com/howto/ember/

How to upgrade Ember's motor control and front panel:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-Embers-Motor-Board-and-Front-Panel/

Here is a guide on how to disassemble Ember build arm:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ember-3D-Printer-Build-Arm-Teardown/

If you have any problems and want to remove the Ember projector here is detailed instruction page:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Remove-Embers-Projector/


There is also a way to get sub-pixel resolution on Ember which could also probably work on other DLP 3d printers. Here is the explanation video:




Here is the Instructables tutorial: http://www.instructables.com/id/Ember-Printer-How-a-Voxel-Grows/


How to fit nuts and bolts into 3d printed parts with heat

Here is a short video showing the process of fitting a nut and threaded rod into a 3d printed part that doesn't fit. Basically the nut is heated and melted into the part.
The is no problem that can not be solved by applying some force to it :-)



Thnx Kris S for sharing it!




Airwolf 3D launches WOLFBITE NANO adhesive for PLA

After the great success Airwolf had with their Wolfbite ABS adhesive, now they present Wolfbite Nano adhesive solution for PLA filaments. It will help the object stick to the print surface and prevent warping and similar  problems.



From the Wolfbite Nano page:
WolfBite Nano is applied with an applicator brush straight onto glass, eliminating the need for tape. One light coat of Wolfbite can be used for several prints. After applying Wolfbite Nano directly on glass, printing can commence immediately, either with a heated or room-temperature bed.
Airwolf 3D specially formulated the proprietary solution to not only promote excellent adhesion but also to make part removal easy. Parts maybe removed post print by immersing the glass plate in water for a short period of time, if necessary.
“As manufacturers of 3D printers that are capable of printing large parts in PLA, we are aware of the frustrations with painter’s tape and adhesion,” said Wolf “After months of research and development, we are pleased to offer a solution that will benefit nearly all desktop 3D printer users. Wolfbite NANO™ was developed at Airwolf 3D through collaboration with Professor Miodrag “Mickey” Micic, Ph.D., who is a department chairman at Cerritos College in Norwalk, Calif., and a well known polymer chemist.
“This is a new, environmentally friendly solution for resolving the acute problem of PLA- based 3D printing, part adhesion and warpage. The solution is based on a combination of green chemistry and nanotechnology to create the best possible adhesion using compounds which are generally regarded as safe,” said Micic.
Wolfbite is packaged in a two fluid ounce container and comes with a foam brush applicator. It is currently available for sale on the Airwolf website at an introductory price of $19.99.
Airwolf is surely becoming industry leader in adhesion solutions! Good work!

Here is video presentation of Wolfbite Nano:


There are still no independent tests or reviews.

Dimafix adhesive spray for heated beds

Dimafix is a new adhesive spray solution to improve bounding of printed objects to print surface and avoid warping.
This adhesive spray formula is activated when the temperature of the print surface reaches around 50C and up to maximum at 80C. The objects can be removed when the temperature drops below 40C.
It is priced at 9,48 euro per 1 unit DIMAFIX (400 ml / 10 oz). The spray is non-toxic, has low odor and it can be washed away from the surface with water.


























Dimafix homepage:

http://www.dimafix.com/features.html

Here is video review and test of Dimafix in realistic conditions but it is in Spanish:



First product of this kind for adhesion improving was 3DLac which is produced near the Dimafix origin town.

Esun nozzle cleaning filament

Shenzhen based Esun company sells the filament they developed that should clean your extruder and nozzle.
Composition of this filament is unknown but it is probably similar to nylon. Nylon filament is used in a cleaning process where it is extruded at 200 C and then cooled to 135 C which hardens it and makes it attract and clean up all the particles that clog up the extruder. Like all similar cleaning methods, this one can also fail.

There is not much information or reviews available around, so if you know something more about this or have any practical experience with it  let me know ...

Produce homepage:

http://www.esun3d.net/cpxx.aspx?id=192&TypeId=26



























If you want to see good guide on how to clean partially clogged nozzle take a look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/07/how-to-clean-and-remove-partial-nozzle.html



How to print NinjaFlex on Printrbot Simple with small 3d printed extruder upgrade





Good people of Adafruit made this tutorial on how to enable your Printrbot extruder to properly work with Ninjafelx filament. All it takes is small 3d printable part and you are good to go ...


Detailed guide:

https://learn.adafruit.com/printrbot-ninjaflex-filament-extruder-upgrade

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:337267






























Update:

Here is a small hack using a drill and hacksaw released by Brook Drumm on how to enable your Printrbot to use Ninjaflex:




How to clean and remove partial nozzle clogging




You may even not know that your nozzle is partially clogged. Eric William made this excellent tutorial on how to fix partially clogged nozzle and improve 3d print quality.You will need acetone and some tools. But it looks simple to do.

Thank you Eric!

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfACwC9diQY




Update (27.9.2014.):

Here is another video tutorial and method for unclogging the nozzle without disassembly with detailed description at:

http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning




How to unclog your 3Doodler




Your 3Doodler got jammed up and clogged? Here is easy tutorial how to clean it and unclog the nozzle. You will just need some simple tools and to watch out for heated parts.
Similar principles could be applicable on other 3d drawing pens. Be careful ... always stay safe and read the manual ...


Pliers or multitool always come handy ...


Da Vinci 1.0 3d printer by XYZ Printing: introduction, reviews, cartridge hacking and repair

New day, new low cost printer from Asia. The bad thing about many new devices as this one, in my opinion, is that it uses some sort of custom cartridges (update: the cartridges can be hacked now and counter reset: look below)  and custom software. But on other hand, some people like that.







Da Vinci 1.0 technical specifications
  • Technology: FFF (FUSED FILAMENT FABRICATION)
  • Maximum build volume (WxHxD): 7.8W X 7.8H X 7.8D INCH (20 X 20 X 20 CM)
  • Printing Mode: FINE: 0.1 MM (100 MICRONS); STD: 0.2 MM (200 MICRONS); SPEED: 0.3 MM (300 MICRONS); ULTRA FAST: 0.4 MM (400 MICRONS)
  • Print Head: SINGLE NOZZLE (dual extruder models are announced by the company in the future)
  • Nozzle Diameter: 0.4 MM
  • Print Speed: 150 MM/s
  • Filament Diameter: 1.75 MM
  • Print Material: ABS
  • Panel Type: 4 X 16 LCM
  • Language: ENGLISH, JAPANESE
  • Connectivity: USB 2.0
  • Net Weight (Cartridges included): 51.9 IB/23.5 KG
  • Price: 499 USD
  • File Types: .stl, G code, XYZ Format
  • OS Supports: Windows XP (.Net 4.0 required), Windows 7+, Mac OSX 10.8 64-bit +
http://www.xyzprinting.com/

Update:

Here are they on CES 2014



Update 2:

da Vinci 2.0 and 2.1 are announced:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/04/da-vinci-20-and-21-3d-printers-announced.html

Update 3:

Here is a full review of Da Vinci 1.0:




Update 4:

da Vinci proprietary filament can be reset and cheaper common standard filament used with cartridges and make the daily operation much cheaper. Here are tutorials, guides and software used for the procedure.

Arduino EEPROM reset:

http://voltivo.com/blog/da-vinci-reset-eeprom

http://www.instructables.com/id/Da-Vinci-10-Filament-Reset/?ALLSTEPS

Here is a reset solution and reseter kits you can buy for some 40 USD: http://wctek.com/xyz/

Is it legal? Is it copyright violation? Does it void guarantee? I don't have a clue ...

LATEST VERSION HACKED: http://www.wb6cqa.com/2016/01/hacking-xyz-davinci-jr.html

Update 5:

Da Vinci announced that hey will start to sell cheaper user replaceable ABS refill filament for their custom cartridges. It will be their filament and they will deliver it with a chip enabling the printer to recognize new spool. The refill will be sold in 25 - 27 USD range for 600g.
The company also announced that they will start to sell PLA filament also.

Here is the product page: http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/ABS

Here is the how-to video:




Video guide on how to replace the nozzle / extruder / printhead on da Vinci 1.0:




Improving PLA adhesion with PVA glue mixture

Useful video tutorial by OhmEye1.

From video description:

This is a demonstration of how I apply PVA glue to my glass print surface on my Reprap MendelMax 3D printer for printing with PLA filament. I can print PLA on bare glass for many objects, but for ones that are prone to lifting from the glass I use a coating of PVA glue which completely eliminates any first layer adhesion problems for me. I use a 1:10 dilute solution of PVA glue and water applied to the heated glass so the water evaporates quickly and I can control the thickness of the coating I apply. I can usually go for several prints without reapplying, depending on what I print. I usually set the bed temperature to between 50C and 60C for the entire PLA print and use fans on the nozzle and also across the build area.


How to get PLA model to stick on print platform?

Youtube user trenchphysics has great tutorial on how to improve PLA model adhesion on the 3d printer build platform. Hairspray or ABS juice. ABS juice is mixture of 1 part ABS and 9 parts acetone left to dissolve.
Let us know if you have any experiences with this method. Stay safe!



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