Showing posts with label upgrade. Show all posts
Showing posts with label upgrade. Show all posts

How to reduce rattling noise on your 3d printer

Tech2C, an Aussi 3d printing youtube, made this video where he shows how to eliminate and reduce the noise, vibration or rattling for his 3d printer.

He uses a HyperCube 3D Printer but his guide is applicable for almost any machine. Used upgrades are rubber feet, foam insulation, stepper motor dampeners or shock absorbers and TMC 2100 stepper drivers with stealthChop mode.






There is a great comment thread under that video with many additional ideas.

Tech2C YouTube channel link:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_scf0U4iSELX22nC60WDSg


Astrosyn shock absorber for NEMA17 used:


Some Good Upgrade and Slicing News from Prusa

The Prusa team announced two great little upgrades in slicing software and hardware.

Slic3r Prusa edition has new smooth variable height layer option and new support optimization.

Here is the presentation video for SLH:





You can read about it, in more detail, here:

http://www.prusaprinters.org/smooth-variable-layer-height-awesome-supports-slic3r-prusa-edition/


Prusa i3 MK2 is now upgraded into MK2S

MK2S is being rolled into production and it comes several improvments.

Key MK2S features:
  • Better LM8UU mounting on Y axis
  • Better LM8UUs and smooth rods
  • Better P.I.N.D.A. probe mount
  • Improved cable stress relief on the extruder
  • Better electronics cover
No more zip ties!!! Yeah!!!

Metal U-bolts now hold things fixated
















For users with old version upgrade kit comes at 49 USD.

Full tech specs with pictures:

http://www.prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-i3-mk2s-release/

How to Convert Direct Feed System Into a Bowden Setup

Joe Mike Terranella published a video tutorial on how to change your direct feed extruder system into a Bowden 3D printer.  He used his Hictop Prusa clone to change it from direct feed to a Bowden setup but you can see many useful tips that can be used for other machines also.


Here is the full tutorial video:



Full parts list is on the video description but he used this Bowden conversion thing:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1064150

Here is Joe's Twitter where you can follow him:

https://twitter.com/MoeJike



Prusa I3 Mk2 released!!!

Prusa I3 Mk2 was just released and it looks great! Many new improvements in a proven design!

Here is a presentation by Josef Prusa:



New key features in Mk2:
  • 31% bigger build volume - 10500 cm3 (25 x 21 x 20 cm)
  • Open frame design for easy use
  • Integrated LCD and SD card controller (8GB included)
  • Up to 40% faster printing thanks to the geniune E3D V6 Full hotend
  • 0,4mm nozzle (easily changeable) for 1,75 mm filament
  • Layer height from 50 microns
  • Automatic mesh bed levelling
  • Heated print bed for warpless 3D printing from any material
  • Hassle free PEI print surface - no glass, no glue, no ABS juice
  • Supported materials – PLA, ABS, PET, HIPS, Flex PP, Ninjaflex, Laywood, Laybrick, Nylon, Bamboofill, Bronzefill, ASA, T-Glase, Carbon-fibers enhanced filaments, Polycarbonates...
  • Easy multicolor printing
  • 1 kg (2 lbs) PLA filament included
  • Average power consumption 50 W (printing PLA) or 90 W (printing ABS), exterior dimensions 42 x 42 x 38 cm (16.5 x 16.5 x 15 inches), weight 6,5 kg (14 lbs), CE certification
  • Specially optimized firmware for quiet printing
  • Slicer support includes Windows 10
I like it! Probably my next purchase! 

Prusa I3 Mk2 homepage news release with more information:


You can pre-order it here:




Hacking and Upgrading Cheap Chinese 3020 and 3040 CNCs

I plan to buy a cheap or even second-hand Chinese 3020 or 3040 CNC mill so I looked around to find a way to improve it with parts I already have like Arduino or some simple electronic upgrades. I found two interesting guides:


Upgrading 3020 (and other models) with Arduino, GRBL and CNC Shield V3




Detailed guide by EricAusome can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/3020-CNC-Arduino-GRBL-CNC-Shield-V3/?ALLSTEPS


John Lauer hacked his 3040 to run with ChiliPeppr and TinyG.


Source: http://hackaday.com/2015/09/08/how-to-upgrade-a-chinese-cnc-machine/




This post will serve as my knowledge base and will be expanded as I gather more CNC hacks.

Endurance L-Cheapo Laser Engraving and Cutting Attachment

Endurance L-Cheapo is a laser engraver / cutter attachment for your 3d printer or a CNC machine that will greatly expand its capabilities.

Key features:
  • L-CHEAPO is a 445 nanometer diode laser which easily mounts on your 3D printer or CNC mill
  • No additional power supply is necessary, and it will not interfere with normal use of your hardware
  • You can readily switch from laser to print/mill mode, use your existing software (Slic3r, Skeinforge, etc), and with no tools the laser can be removed in about 2 minutes
  • L-CHEAPO can cut paper and wood up to 3/16ths of an inch, and can engrave most non-metallic materials
Tech specs:
  • Laser Type Diode – No export restrictions
  • Laser Output 2100mW ± 15%
  • Focal length 10cm (variable)
  • Laser wavelength 445nm
  • Lens Type Crystal glass
  • Operation time Tested 48 hours continuous
  • Voltage 9-16V DC
  • Current draw 2100mA ± 10%
  • Price: $195 + shipping costs

Videos of L-Cheapo in action:











Here it is cutting acrylic:





Here it is cutting 6mm plywood:





Here is a laser attachment tool head for Ultimaker 2:




Endurance homepage:

http://endurancerobots.com/products/laser-cutters-accessory/





Priming, Dumping and Wiping Add-ons for Your 3D Printer

John Fuoco developed several printable add-on upgrades which will enable you to prime, dump excess filament and clean the nozzle for Delta 3d printers and other machines.

Here is a servo powered arm for Deltas:



Here is a simillar apparatus on a Bukobot which could probably be customized for most machines:




All the files and instructions:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:958642

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:961135


Excess filament dumped in small bin with cleaning edge


Wanhao Duplicator I3 is new low cost machine (review and modifications)

Wow! 375 USD for steel frame Prusa I3. Prices have surely fallen. Bellow you will find a review and some modifications:





Technical specifications:
  • Printer ships with 3000mm (~10 ft.) Black PLA Filament
  • Extruder: MK10 Single-Extruder (with Steel X-Carriage)
  • Filament Size: 1.75mm Dedicated
  • Layer Capability: 0.1mm (100 microns)
  • Build Envelope: 200mm x 200mm x 180mm
  • Filament Capabilities: ABS & PLA
  • Compatible Software: ReplicatorG (Opensource), Simplify 3D (Details)
  • File Type: Gcode
  • File Transfer: SD Card Slot & USB
  • Warranty: 1 Year Full Factory Warranty (Includes FREE Parts Replacement and FREE Repair)
  • Frame Color: Black Steel Frame
Product page:

http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame

There are still no reviews or third party tests but comments on forums are very positive and Wanhao is considered one of the better Asian manufacturers.


Update:

Here is a review of Wanhao Duplicator i3:




Here are some mechanical upgrades and modifications by Vernon Barry:




Here is a guide on how to level and calibrate the platform (sound is low quality but you can use it):




Here is a tutorial on how to use Cura with Wanhao Duplicator i3:




Here isa review by Thomas of a Malyan M150, a 3d printer that looks like a clone of a first version of Wanhao i3. it goes trough several problems and safety issues including possible false certification issues.




Update (18.09.2016.):

Looks like Wanhao issued a recall for their Replicator due to some safety problems. Surprise surprise.
Here is the link to recall and repair instructions:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/ZXzxdP9SUlU

Here is a video of a similar repair due to smoke coming from a printbed spark:


Hack your FDM Delta into DLP 3D printer

As I was researching low cost DLP solutions I found this project by sirocco where he converted his old Delta into DLP SLA 3d printer by putting a projector on the top opening and adding vat resin. Delta configuration looks like good option due to hight.

I'm not sure how he moves his vat with salt water and resin, it could be done by separate mechanism or by some type of vat tray mounted on three points to the Delta frame and moved by existing motors.



Source, more details, but no clear instructions:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Delta-Robot-to-Sla-Printer-Top-Down/

Print results look decent:



Hacking Autodesk Ember

Here is a compilation of tutorials on how to hack and tweak your Autodesk Ember DLP 3d printer. It is interesting to see that this machine made by a major corporation can be easily open and tinkered with.

Accessing the control electronics block and USB to control the LCD projector




As always you do this on your own risk! Warranty will probably be voided. 


Here is a tutorial on how to increase power of Embers motors, unstuck frozen prints with brute force and make full volume printing easier. Motors will probably have shorter life span. Basic knowledge of electronics is needed.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Supercharge-Your-Ember/

How to access and control Embers internal Wintech projector via USB for more power and control. In theory it should enable higher speeds. This tutorial also goes into drivers and software.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Setting-Ember-for-More-POWER-or-how-to-control-the/

Here is some research and testing on how will the PDMS tray window clouding influence exposure time:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Window-clouding-in-the-Ember-printer/

... and to maintain the Ember resin tray: http://www.instructables.com/id/Resin-Tray-Care/

If you want to use different resins in Autodesk Ember, here is a guide on how to set it up and calibrate it:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-tune-Embers-print-settings-for-new-resins/

... and to calibrate the head: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Calibrate-Embers-Print-Head/

Here is simple guide on how to update Embers firmware:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-update-Embers-firmware/

You can find several more on Instructables: http://www.instructables.com/howto/ember/

How to upgrade Ember's motor control and front panel:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-Embers-Motor-Board-and-Front-Panel/

Here is a guide on how to disassemble Ember build arm:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ember-3D-Printer-Build-Arm-Teardown/

If you have any problems and want to remove the Ember projector here is detailed instruction page:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Remove-Embers-Projector/


There is also a way to get sub-pixel resolution on Ember which could also probably work on other DLP 3d printers. Here is the explanation video:




Here is the Instructables tutorial: http://www.instructables.com/id/Ember-Printer-How-a-Voxel-Grows/


How to upgrade early Printrbot Simple from fishing line to belt drive

If you own an early version of wooden Printrbot Simple from 2013 / 2014 that is powered by Kevlar fishing line you may want to upgrade it to belt drive.
Jason Bowling made a very detailed guide on the entire process that will upgrade you small Printrbot. Kudos Jason!







Detailed guide with pictures:

http://shortcircuitsandinfiniteloops.blogspot.in/2015/02/gt2-belt-drive-conversion-of-printrbot.html?m=1

E3D Volcano super high flow nozzle upgrade will speed up your 3d printing

E3D just released their Volcano super high flow nozzle upgrade that will speed up your 3d printing by pushing more filament trough the hot end.
Putting on a larger diameter nozzle and extruding more molten filament also improves strength since the more mass and more heat improve adhesion between the layers.


Volcano product home page:

http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=extras/blog/getblog&blog_id=28


Here is a video demonstration and presentation of Volcano:



Here is a picture of Volcano heater block and various diameter larger nozzles:





Upgraded Marlin firmware by Scott Lahteine

Scott Lahteine made his Marlin fork with some new and improved features.
Features of his Marlin fork include:
  • Cleaner Z display
  • SD Listing Sorted Alphabetically
  • SD List buffer for fast, reliable SD navigation
  • LCD Progress Bar
  • Wait Messages (M0 Click me)
  • Long filename display
  • Print abort message
  • "Wait for user" click stays on Info Screen
Those features will probably be coming to Marlin in near future.

If you are brave and/ or like experimenting with Marlin you can get this version now at:

http://github.com/thinkyhead/Marlin

Here is the video overview of the features in action:



LCD display and information show is much better 


Upgrading old CNC plasma router table into DIY 3d printer








Here are two interesting videos by SVseeker crew. They show how they upgraded their CNC plasma router table with 3d printing extruder. I believe their CNC table is refurbished second-hand DynaCNC table which they plan to upgrade further into DIY vacuum and water table and ballpoint drawing / plotter table.
They show parts of the construction process and print results.
Keep it up Svseek-ers, that sailboat looks great!




I covered several other CNC upgraded into 3d printer projects, start here and follow the links if you want to see other examples:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/02/upgrading-sieg-mini-cnc-into-3d-printer.html


Also check out SVseeker.com homepage, they have several CRAZY projects like personal DIY submarines:

http://svseeker.com/


Submarine Seeker home-built submersible by SvSeeker




Upgrade your Printrbot with 3D printed version of the Printrbot direct drive aluminum extruder




You can upgrade your Printrbot 3d printer with 3d printed version of newer direct drive aluminum extruder design. This extruder allows easier filament loading, more visibility when diagnosing jams and filament breaks and other operations.

All the files can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:281015

It is based on:

https://printrbot.com/2014/01/23/aluminum-extruder-documentation-fun/









Titan modification for Prusa Mendel




If you think that your Prusa Mendel sucks you can upgrade it in various ways. Here is one possibility: the Titan developed by Justin Trisnamawan and Andy Chu.
It is not well documented and there are no details or designs for the frame available, but maybe they will come in the future. It looks good.













How to upgrade RepRapPro Huxley with "Fanned Up" modifications

Four university students (Aaron, Ananda, Matt & Michael) created an upgrade kit and guide for RepRapPro Huxley model. The upgrade includes: laser cut frame is in 6mm MDF, z axis bracket, fan upgrades and maintenance guide.

























They also summarized the maintenance needed for Huxley model:
Daily
  • Use acetone based cleaning solution (nail polish remover will work) to wipe the bed, ensure it is not heated.
  • Ensure rear fans are clear of cable obstruction.
  • When feeding filament ensure it has a pointed end, this will help its feeding into the hot-end and extruder.
  • Ensure the y axis linear rods are in place in the supports.
  • Ensure that the nut holding the x axis idler is finger tight.
  • Run the printer fans for no less than 3 minutes before print to ensure smooth operation.
Weekly
  • All the daily checks plus:
  • Ensure all the nuts are tight (there are 48 of them).
  • Check that all 6 bearings are in place.
Monthly
  • All the Daily and Weekly checks plus:
  • Cleaning the nozzle: Raise the z axis 50mm from home and the hot-end to 200 through 'Pronterface'. Clean the nozzle of any excess material using a wooden spatula or knife **CAUTION** THIS MUST BE DONE WITH EXTREME CAUTION, the hot-end is at up to 250 degrees C!
  • Check belt tension on x and y axis. (refer to assembly instructions)
  • Check that all five steppers are firmly attached to the frame/supports.
  • Tighten the U brackets connecting the z axis motors to the threaded rods.
  • Check end stops for wear.
  • Grease linear rods x6 with WD-40 or similar lubricant.
  • The electric connectors and screws should be checked for tightness.
  • Check bed wires for integrity replace if worn.

Here is Instructables page with all the details:

http://www.instructables.com/id/RRP-Huxley-FU-Fanned-Up-Improvements-to-the-Huxley/?ALLSTEPS

Thingiverse page (not public at the moment):

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74001



Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker original Plus open source files available

Ultimaker 2 plans and files are now available on GitHub and YouImagine under open source licence if you want to build it yourself.

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-source-files

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2

Here is the news release from Ultimaker blog:

https://www.ultimaker.com/blogs/news/2014/03/28/ultimaker-s-open-sourcing-continues-ultimaker-2-source-files-now-online

Here are the files for Ultimaker original Plus and the heated bed upgrade:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus

https://github.com/Ultimaker/HeatedBedUpgrade



Cura 14.03 with new Ultimaker 2 firmware released!

Ultimaker software just released Cura 14.03. Here is overview from Ultimaker blog:
Setting storage
One of the major changes is that the settings are now stored per machine instead of global for all machines. This means that if you have multiple printers you can keep the optimal settings for each printer with that printer.
TweakAtZ plugin
The “TweakAtZ” plugin has been added by default. This plugin has been made by Steve Morlock, Ricardo Gomez and Stefan Heule. Big thank you to them! Thanks to their community effort you can now change various settings like temperature and speed at certain heights. Giving more control on how your print is made.
New Ultimaker 2 firmware
For the Ultimaker2 a new firmware is supplied with Cura 14.03. This firmware adds a pause option in the tune menu. So you can pause a print on the Ultimaker2. It also contains fixes for a few small bugs that where reported.
Additional changes in Cura
  • Improved the LayerView rendering speed
  • LayerView now updates during slicing, so you can see the result before it is ready to print spotting problems early on
  • Selectable USB printing dialogs, from plugins, with default Basic and PronterfaceUI
  • Selection between new grid or line based support material
  • Added optional separate speeds for outer and inner shells
  • Added Z-Hop feature in the expert settings
  • Added setting to configure support material angle from the expert settings, giving better control on where support material is generated
  • Various small bugfixes improving print quality
Full features Ultimaker 2 firmware update
  • Added pause function during printing
  • Added material selection when changing material
  • Fixed the move material maintenance function
  • Fixed the led brightness on startup
  • Retraction settings are saved and restored on reset

https://www.ultimaker.com/blogs/news/2014/03/18/cura-14-03



New upgraded Rostock Max v2 kit by SeeMeCNC


From company page:
The NEW Rostock MAX v2 - The largest build envelope of any printer under $1,000! With everything you'll need to build a complete machine - every nut, bolt, wire and fastener – this is a true builder’s kit! The massive Onyx heated bed and super flat borosilicate glass build plate allow you to print more than just PLA.
From ABS to Taulman Nylon, you’re limited only by your creativity when it comes to printing.
From our incredibly simple and efficient EZStruder, to our SD Card-ready firmware, the MAX is simply the best value you’ll find anywhere. For those who also like to mod and upgrade, there is plenty of room for your creativity too. Our online community is second-to-none, and our loyal users LOVE to show off all the modifications they have made to their machines, share printing tips and tricks, and help troubleshoot if needed.

What’s new with the v2?
  • Re-designed hot-end platform and Delta arms and mounts for worry free assembly. No Sanding Required!
  • Lower parts count means faster assembly time
  • Top mounted spool holder shortens length between EZStruder and spool, and minimizes machine footprint.
  • New Base enclosures protect your electronics from dirt/dust, and give your kit a clean, attractive appearance
  • New Top design provides more rigidity for better prints, and easier assembly and calibration
These improvements are added to the already impressive list of standard components and features:
  • Over 1300 cubic inches of build volume (11" Diameter by over 14 1/2" height)
  • US Made - high quality, laser cut, injection molded, and CNC machined parts. All done by us, in house!
  • Our EZStruder and Hot-End set up for 1.75mm filament
  • High torque NEMA 17 stepper motors
  • Stock .5mm nozzle for easy printing. Easy to change to other available sizes
  • 450w ATX style power supply for safety and easy upgrades/replacements
  • RAMBo by UltiMachine electronics, the best available 3D printer controller
  • Positioning accuracy of .05mm
  • Speed up to 300mm/s in all motion, not just X/Y moves
  • Tinker-friendly electronics and hardware. Many extra places to add your own mods to both
  • Filament spool holder incorporated into the machine (for 1lb or 1kg spools only)
  • Onyx Heated Bed
  • Borosilicate Glass build plate for safety and precision
Here's what you will need to complete the assembly:
  • Appx. 20hrs. to assemble (time varies based on skill and any mods made during the assembly)
  • Standard Allen wrench set
  • Metric Allen Wrench Set
  • Needle nose and/or small pliers
  • Wire crimping tool or solder and solder iron
  • Standard and Phillips Screwdrivers
  • High Temp RTV silicone for retaining heating resistors/thermistor in hot-end, or High Temp expoxy

http://seemecnc.com/products/rostock-max-complete-kit

It is priced at USD 999


Reddit thread about it:

http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1ytnh4/seemecnc_launched_the_rostock_max_v3_kit_today/



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