Mancave developed this simple to build tumbler for smoothing 3d printed parts. It works best with metallic filaments like Bronzefill and simillar. It tumbles the part with small screws giving it shiny and smooth surface.
Here is the build and operation video:
Here is the video of Coperfill skull being processed and polished:
Justine shows how to get a smooth surface on your 3d print with some help of thermal transfer tool which is somewhat simillar to soldering iron. It is used mostly by woodworkers to etch or scorch a pattern with heat into the wooden surfaces Results look good.
This thermal transfer tool has a larger round surface
Do you know the difference between translucent and transparent? I didn't, but I got it after watching this video. This free webinar will teach you how to get 3d objects optically clean by polishing, buffing, photobleaching, sanding, clear coating and applying other techniques. It is focused on Stratasys VeroClear material but it can be applied on other surfaces to get better finish.
Here is a great 3d printed model paining tutorial based on real life experiences of Cliff Mellangård. It will show you how to paint your larger printed objects for optimal aesthetic effect with common dyes and simple technique.
Cliff also developed FunBot Pro and FunBot i1 3d printers that are very cheap to make even for the novice builders.
TechWizAu made a video describing how he uses epoxy to get a smoothing effect without using acetone. He uses the Z-Poxy PT-39 30 Minute epoxy to get much smoother surface finish. It is a dual component epoxy with the resin and hardener.
Here is how to video with the entire process and some tips:
I was not aware of this technique and it looks much easier then using acetone. I'm not sure what epoxies are available on my local market in Croatia but I will check it out.
Smoothing Vader 3d printed mask with epoxy and a small paint brush
Micheal, well known for his TestrBot made another useful and easy DIY project that enables you to build ultrasonic vapor polisher for your 3d printed objects.
Here is the project summary:
What's needed is a better solvent application method, and that's what this Instructable is about.
The current vapor polishing methods and their drawbacks include:
Hot treat via boiling solvent in a crock pot or similar chamber (Potentially dangerous and very hands-on process)
Cold treat via slow release of solvent from paper towels in an enclosed container (Very time consuming, can't observe parts during this process.)
Spray canned solvent aerosol onto part. (Inconsistent surface finish, must be done outside)
Dipping parts directly into liquid solvents (Unpredictable/inconsistent finish, Likely over exposure of part)
All I wanted is a machine that lets me quickly drop parts into a transparent container and be able to press 'go' and have the machine produce a predictable finish on its own. I do not want to have to put together a really involved setup that may be a fire hazard, fume hazard, or something that produces unpredictable surface finishes. Essentially I want something as convenient as a microwave. I'm also forgetful so I don't want my parts to be destroyed if I forget that I left them in the machine.
The Ultrasonic Misting 3D Vapor Polisher is the solution to all of these problems.
This key component of this machine comes from ultrasonic humidifier, which uses a piezoelectric transducer (like a speaker) to create a high frequency mechanical oscillation in a liquid. This vibration forms an extremely fine mist of droplets in a fog/mist. The density of the fog is controlled by varying the intensity of the vibrations via a potentiometer.
This fog mist is very dense and wont move far on its own, so I used an aquarium air pump to blow it from the misting chamber into the glass finishing chamber where it can condense on the 3D printed part. This airflow keeps the air moving inside the finishing chamber, which helps produce a consistent finish on the part. The airflow system is open by necessity but we do not want the exhaust air to become a fume hazard so there is a water bubbler on the exhaust to absorb excess solvent. (Note that this only protects you when using water miscible solvents such as acetone.)
Here is the video of machine in action and results of the treatment:
The vapor treatment resulted in a consistent overall weakening of the test specimens. Specimens that had not been treated with Acetone vapor had an average yield stress 24% higher than those treated with the vapor.
Solvents that can be used to polish different materials:
ABS: Acetone
Acrylic: Most Solvents
PLA: MEK or 'MEK Substitute'
PVA: Water
PVC: Most Solvents
Polycarbinate: Pretty solvent resistant
Nylon: Pretty solvent resistant
Polypropylene: Pretty solvent resistant
Polyethylene: Pretty solvent resistant
Stay safe people! Chemicals are dangerous! You can check this chart showing dangerous combinations:
3D Print Tips YT channel posted a video on how to use PVC pipe cleaner that is commercially available to vapor smooth PLA. The cleaner fluid is probably rich with THF (tetrahydrofuran) so it has a similar effect as acetone on ABS plastic. Do keep in mind that this method is probably less effective than using dichloromethane and chloroform.
The procedure is simple, the object is suspended above the heated THF rich fluid and the vapors dissolve surface layers and make them smooth.
Do keep in mind that the fumes are toxic and there is a fire hazard! Heating THF causes unstable explosive peroxide compounds that are carcinogenic.
Here is the PLA part after the process. You can see that the surface is polished and shiny looking. LAyers are almost not visible.
Here is video showing the setup with few simple supplies like copper wire, mason jar and heater:
You can read the first post about THF polishing and smoothing here:
Adafruit released a guide on how to effectively polish copperFill and bronzeFill filament 3d printed objects and get them to high shine. They use some simple machines and it the results look easy to reproduce. After the process the objects look like they were casted in full metal. The main part of the polishing is tumbling the prints in a container with brass screws
Andreas Bastian made this guide for sand blasting 3d printed PLA objects to give matte surface finish with reduced visible layering and shiny parts. His conclusions were:
Even blasting helps the final surface quality.
Additional shells (3 or 4) help keep the print sealed during washing.
After blasting, the matte surface is prone to absorbing skin oils and other particles, much the way an SLS print does.
The blasting grit will alter the color of lighter PLAs, the white took on more of a bone hue and the natural clear developed a somewhat murky color. The black PLA blasted to a very nice matte grey.
