Showing posts with label thingiverse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thingiverse. Show all posts

Rise of 3D Printing Spam?

Shiv Integer is a bot developed by artists Matthew Plummer-Fernandez and Julien Deswaef which downloads CC licensed 3D models from Thingiverse, mixes them up into weird new shapes, adds machine generated titles and descriptions to them, and posts them back. It is mostly not printable on a common 3d printer.

It is a form of artistic exploration and it opens many questions about Thingiverse as repository, intellectual property and re-mixing vulture.
But, if we look at it from another angle: IT IS 3D PRINTING SPAM!!!  Well at least it is a precursor to spam :-) Proto-3DPI spam. Yes boys and girls, welcome to the 21st century, where spam is 3d printed.

First thing on Shiv's FAQ page is this:
 − Is it Spam?
No, this is not spam; it is done with good intentions and with the aim of contributing new, thought-provoking, poetic and even humorous ways of making things.
... that is what all spammers say :-) !!!

Here is a project description:
Shiv Integer is a bot that inhabits Thingiverse to find and download 3D models, make assemblages of these, and post its creations back on Thingiverse, whilst respecting and retaining the Creative Commons licensing of the source models. It also generates names, descriptions and renders for all of its designs. To date (6.5.16) it has made 298 objects. The bot was launched on the 15th February and our involvement in the project was kept secret until 9th April.

Here is a video showing the object the bot re-mixed:



Project homepage:

http://www.plummerfernandez.com/Shiv-Integer

Article about the project:

http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/05/that-time-a-bot-invaded-thingiverse-and-created-weird-new-3d-objects/

Shiv Integer Thingiverse profile and uploads:

https://www.thingiverse.com/shivinteger/about





























Artist behind Shiv Integer also developed Disarming Corruptor software which can encrypt 3d models which is much more useful and thought provoking.

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.hr/2013/12/disarming-corruptor-3d-model-encryption.html

Thingiverse Theft And How To Protect Yourself

Someone has been stealing designs from Thingiverse and selling it on Ebay. Here are two videos describing the situation and how you can protect yourself.

Here is Joel aka. 3D Printing Nerd:




Here is Angus from Maker's Muse. He as a industrial designer and professional with a lot of experience suggest few steps on how to protect yourself including watermarking it and not uploading it at all:



Here is the Thingiverse post that started it all:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1350837

here is the official Thingiverse statement about your rights:

http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2016/02/24/your-rights-when-you-upload-to-thingiverse

Here is the epilogue of the whole story, but it will probably happen again in a different form:

http://3dprint.com/124281/thingiverse-users-win/


DIY 3d printable manual pick and place vacuum tool

While there are more and more robotic DIY print-and-place machines, sometimes you just need to use your hand to remove some fine and hard to reach electronics. zapta designed 3d printable pick and place tool that uses modified medical needles and power of vacuum.


All the files can be found at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607270

From project description:
NEW: added a model for a mouth piece that allow to have a stand alone pick and place tool with no vacuum pump. The tube is a flexible silicon aquarium airline from a pet store. The filter is a universal 1/4" automobile fuel filter (filed to fit the airline).
This is a single piece design a handle for vacuum hand picker for electronics SMT components. It has two versions, one with a release hole and without release hole (I am using the latter with a foot pedal and a 12V pneumatic valve for better release stability).
The printed release hole is intentionally small and you can drill a larger one if you want, or just print the no hole version and drill a hole wherever you want. The handle is compatible with standard industrial blunt needles (available on eBay) and with standard aquarium air hose (use silicon hose for better flexibility, e.g. "TopFin Silicone Airline Tubing").
The files with 'demo' in their name are provided to show the internal details. These are not the files you want to print.
I printed it on a Prusa i3V using PLA, 20% infill, 5 top, bottom and vertical shells (in Slic3r) for better air tightness and no material support (otherwise you will block the internal air passage).
Air tightness is important for proper operation so you want to test it by holding it under water with the tip blocked and blowing into the hose. If you still see bubble through cracks and holes you may want to increase the number of shells, print slower, make sure you don't under extrude or fill the holes with glue (you can apply vacuum to such the glue into the holes).
This is a base design and hopefully others will improve on it. For example, forcing the air to flow near the release hole for minimizing the residual vacuum when released, a built in adjustable valve for regulating the desire lifting force, built in air filter or somehow making this thing ESD safe.

Vinci DIY compound bow with 3d printed parts

Vinci is a DIY compound bow that you can make with 3d printed parts and some fiberglass limbs. This bow has some 30 pounds of draw weight in its current version, but it is a third version and the improvements are visible in each new build.
Many of the available parts could be used in other DIY archery projects.



Here is a video of bow in action:




DIY drop away arrow rest:



All the 3d printing files needed and construction instructions can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:550639


Vinci bow is in the third iteration, here is the previous version, the Vinci Mark 2 with much lower draw weight: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:483477

3d printing is used in many other hobby and DIY archery projects like: DIY bow quiver,  3d printed sight mount and stabilizer for hig power compound bow, DIY archery sight pin and target pins, DIY arrow fletcher and other DIY archery accessories like knocks and other useful things.

Here you can see a DIY bow made from some old skis and 3d printed parts:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/05/archery-bow-made-from-3d-printed-parts.html

Looks like a home / workshop 3d printer is must-have tool for all archery hackers!

Update here is a new project: working 3d printed DIY bow hand!



Freebot DIY 3d printer

There are new 3d printer plans being published every day. Freebot is a new simple DIY machine with all the files published on Thingivierse.
There are no detailed construction guides, but you could probably figure it out if you had some previous experiance in building your 3d printer.


































Freebot technical specifications:
  • Hard base, light structure, fast and precise
  • Print area: 245x145 mm h 180 mm, 6 litres
  • Thickness layer: 0,1-0,27 mm 
  • Extruder: 0,4 millimetri 
  • Max speed : f300 mm / s
  • Max extruder temperature recommended: 260 C
  • Precision: 2,5 micron on Z, 1 micron on XY
  • ABS, PLA and others 1,75 mm
Electronics
  • Ramps1.4 MKS 
  • 1/16 micro stepper
  • display full graphic with encoder and reset key
  • Print gcode directly from SD card
  • Universal power pack – 100-240V , 50/60Hz , 24v/6,0 A (in) , standard cable IEC
Mechanics
  • Linear bearings
  • Precision screw z-axis 12 mm
  • Structure: wood and PLA
  • Global dimensions: 400 x 400 x 500 mm
  • Weight: 1,5kg

All the files to make your own Freebot DIY 3d printer can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:570718

... since I could not find more information on THIS Freebot 3d printer, I found another completely unrelated Freebot that is very interesting concept idea ... see here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/12/freebot-mobile-3d-printer-concept-with.html



ShapeDo will help you escape Thingiverse with easy migration tool




Thingiverse has had some issues with copyright of users 3d models and MakerBots attempted patenting of open technologies. That made some users angry and looking for new communities. ShapeDo saw the opportunity and developed easy migration tool that will take your models from Thingiverse and move them into ShapeDo. Well done ShapeDo!

http://shapedo.com/





Nomad modular and scalable 3d printable DIY drone























Nomad is project in development of modular 3d printable aircraft measuring one meter in wingspan powered by electric motor. Future versions will be up to 50% larger and able to carry a GoPro camera in their nose. 

Nomad is a project by CaptainObvious   

From project description:
This is the Nomad, a new design I'm working on for a travel UAV/FPV airplane. This version has a wingspan of almost one meter, so it's relatively small. After I've completed and test flown I plan to make a 30/50% larger version to carry a GoPro camera in the nose for aerial photography.
The airplane is meant to be modular, the nose and tail sections are joined to the center section with nylon screws, the wings and stabilizers are detachable and even the wing panels can be kept separate to simplify repairs and testing new design ideas.
  • The wing sections are meant to be printed in a "Spiral Vase" mode, the internal spars and/or printing settings should be adjusted so that the printing head makes the spars by moving in from the bottom of the wing until touching the inner surface of the top of the wing, so there is only one seam at the bottom.
  • I have carefully modeled the fuselage parts so that most of them will print as a two perimeter shell using a 0.4mm nozzle, except where more thickness is needed.
  • The wings need two carbon fiber tubes, 8 and 3 mm diameter, the stabilizer also uses a 3mm carbon fiber tube spar.
  • The plane will use one brushless motor mounted on the tail with a 6" propeller.
  • Things left to do: flaperons, rib between the straight wing panels and the tapered external panel, optional nose wheel, camera turret and internal brackets and supports for servos and electronics.

All files are available at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:272478

For more 3d printed drones take a look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/search/label/drone

3d printed tools: dial calipers and tape measure

3d printable P6*6 120 Pinhole Camera by Todd Schlemmer

Here is another printable camera: the P6*6 120 pinhole camera by Todd Schlemmer. It is small and compact and ,of course, it is based on pinhole photography with analogue film.

You can get very detailed data, more links and all the instructions to build it here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157844


Sample photo taken by P6*6





























For other printable cameras and related projects, look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/search/label/camera

Daily 3d printing - fingernail clipper organizer

Uzarski Designs guy had a problem. His nail clipping procedure was sub-optimal. He solved this, very challenging, problem with a help of 3d printing.
You Sir is what makes this wonderful technology grow! Hat tip!




Solve your nail clipping issues with easy download from Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:238206







Using Open SCAD with external advanced text editors Sublime Text, Notepad ++, Textmate and other

If you are using OpenSCAD and you are limited by its simple code editor, you can use it with advanced text editors like Sublime Text or Textmate to code in. They offer many advanced options like syntax coloring, automation of many manual operations etc.

You can use OpenSCAD with almost any external text editor, here is the short explanation:
OpenScad is able to check for changes of files and automatically recompile if a file change occurs. To use this feature enable "Design->Automatic Reload and Compile"
Once the feature is activated, just load the scad file within OpenSCAD as usual ("File->Open..").
After that, open the scad file in your favorite editor too. Edit and work on the scad file within the external editor. Whenever the file is saved to disk (from within the external editor), OpenSCAD will recognize the file change and automatically recompiles accordingly.
The internal editor can be hidden by minimizing the frame with the mouse or by selecting "View->Hide editor".
Open SCAD is programmatic CAD that is used most often, but there are many others. Some of them have syntax coloring, and probably some more could be used with external text editors.  

Textmate (Mac OS only) OpenSCAD add-on:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15292

Textmate webpage: http://macromates.com/

Notepad++ language file:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15363

Notepad++ text editor download: http://notepad-plus-plus.org/

Sublime Text 2 OpenSCAD add-on:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235558

Sublime Text multiplatfrom text editor: http://www.sublimetext.com/






Here are some information how to use OpenSCAD with

emacs: https://github.com/openscad/openscad/blob/master/contrib/scad-mode.el

and Kate: here is the Kate syntax file http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29505

Source:

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_an_external_Editor_with_OpenSCAD

3d printed rivets for friction welding plastic with Dremel tool

You can friction weld plastic together with a help of Dremel tool as described and shown here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/how-to-friction-weld-plastic-with.html

There are also 3d printable "rivets" that you can insert and do a sort of "blind" or Pop riveting.




























You can download files for printing them here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:61510

How to make DIY glow plug heated metal extruder by Adam Kemp and MAKE Projects

Adam Kemp made this low cost extruder project from scratch made from aluminum and automotive glow spark as heat source. You will need to cut some aluminum parts, but the design looks solid.

From project description:
I love 3D printing, so I decided to build my own printer. After playing around with commercial machines like MakerBot’s Cupcake and Thing-O-Matic, it hit me that I could make my own for free, or very near it.
So, off I headed down the long and winding road to design and build a small 3D printer (or as my son likes to call it, the Toy Machine). After a great deal of dumpster diving, I scavenged enough stepper motors, linear rails, and drive belts for the mechanical parts, but I was stumped when it came to the heart of the printer: the extruder. The internet turned up a slew of fancy designs, but all possessed one design flaw: they required 3D printed parts, so you’d need to have a 3D printer to make a 3D printer!
My solution was to build this robust extruder using a handful of tools, one online parts order, and a trip to the auto-parts store. For a heater, it uses a $10 glow plug from a diesel engine, and it performs as well as commercially available extruders.



Thingiverse page:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153464

Detailed making instructions are at:

http://makezine.com/projects/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/glow-plug-3d-printer-extruder/



Artifex 3D Printer




























Artifex technical specifications:
Print technology: Fused Filament Fabrication
Build Space
- W × D × H: 230 × 310 × 190 mm (9 × 12.2 × 7.5 in)
- Volume: 13,547 cm3 (827 in3, 2X the volume of MakerBot® ReplicatorTM 2)
(Note: MakerBot and Replicator are registered marks or trademarks of MakerBot Industries, LLC.)
- Height extendable to 220 mm (8.7 in) in the middle of X-axis for additional 198 × 310 × 30 mm (1,841 cm3, or 112 in3) space
Layer resolution: 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Nozzle diameter: 0.35 mm (0.014 in)
Print materials: 1.75 mm PLA and ABS
Speed
- Top print speed: 150 mm/sec (infill or inner perimeter), 100 mm/sec (outer perimeter)
- Top non-print speed: 300 mm/sec
Acceleration
- Top print acceleration: 3000 mm/sec2 (infill), 1500 mm/sec2 (perimeter)
- Top non-print acceleration: 300 mm/sec2
Electronical
Power requirements:  110/220 VAC
Electronics: RAMBo
Hot-end: MakerGear hot-end with 0.35mm nozzle
Heated bed: 24V 200W heated bed up to 120°C
Cooling fans: Three 24V cooling fans for filament drive, print surface, and electronics
Mechanical
Overall dimension: W × D × H: 484 × 482 × 480 mm (19 × 19 × 19 in)
Weight: 11 Kg (24 lb)
Frame: Aluminum extrusions
Motion
- X- and Y-axis: linear rails and GT2 belts
- Z-axis: precision linear shafting and ACME leadscrews
Printed parts:  Black ABS
Artifex is priced 1895 USD for fully assembled printer.

Main features:
Wire management
We know you do not like messy wiring. Neither do we. That was the reason why we spent tons of time and effort to manage those wires. We even went back to change the machine design multiple times in order to get a better routing option. Finally, we worked out a solution which can meet our standard to be part of a "neat machine". Hope you will like it as we do.

HBP Corner
No binder clips, please.
Binder clips have become the typical solution in most desktop 3D printers to hold its print surface to the build platform. Although they work fine for the purpose of holding the print surface, they waste otherwise usable print area on the edges,  interfere with the extruder nozzle, and give an "unfinished" look to your printer. The Artifex 3D Printer comes with newly designed HBP (Heated Build Platform) corners, which have securing slots to hold the glass plate and the heat spreader in place. The HBP corners can be easily slided out to release the glass top if you need to access the glass for maintenance.

Adjustable Y-axis Carriage
Less vibration means faster and quieter printing
In the original MendelMax 2.0 design, large vibration was observed at high printing speed. Such vibration created lots of noise and also caused quality problems in the finished parts. Majority of such vibration was caused by the large gap between the Y-axis rail and its catriages. The 3DMakerWorld Artifex 3D Printer uses upgraded Y-axis catriages with adjustable clearance capability. By reducing the gap between the Y-axis rail and the catriages, the 3DMakerWorld Artifex 3D Printer can achieve quiet and high-quality printing even at high speed.

Three-point bed leveling system
If you have ever tried both three-point and four-point bed leveling systems, you certainly know how much easier the bed leveling could be with a three-point leveling system. Yes, the 3DMakerWorld Artifex 3D Printer comes with a three-point bed leveling system in place to ease the leveling process.

Adjustable Z-Axis End-Stop Trigger
Adjustable Z-axis zeroing
As you continue advancing into the world of 3D printing, you will find the need to fine tune the distance between the extruder nozzle and the print surface. Such process is called Z-axis zeroing. The Artifex 3D Printer provides the adjustable Z-axis zeroing capability. It uses an adjustable Z-axis end-stop trigger to precisely adjust the nozzle height without messing up the bed level.

HBP cable strain relief
The HBP heater moves along the Y-axis with the build platform. The joint between the cable of HBP heater and the build platform is often a weak point due to the strain applied during continuous movement. A strain relief is built into the Artifex 3D Printer to secure and support the cable of HBP heater.

Enclosed electronics with dedicated cooling fan
The electronics board on the Artifex 3D Printer is completely enclosed from top to bottom for safe operation and easy maintainence. The electronics case also contains a dedicated cooling fan to cool off the electronic components during printing.

24V Power Supply with Rear Panel
24V power supply with convenient power switch
The 3DMakerWorld Artifex 3D Printer uses a 24V power supply to provide better heating capability on heated bed, and to improve motor performance at high printing speed. For the purpose of safety and aesthetics, all wire connectors are enclosed by top/bottom covers and back panel. An easy-reach power switch is installed on the power panel to switch on and off the power to the printer conveniently.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:214140

http://www.3dmakerworld.com/artifex

Spherebot - 3d printable xmas balls robot plotter

Christmas is coming you dusted off your xmas tree and decorated it: everybody try to make it different, buying new decorations and balls of different colors. Well, if you are looking for something original, think of making your personalized balls with drawings and writings at will.
Here comes this machine: a printer, or better to say a plotter, which will draw with a marker on spheres at will, derived from models transformed into G-code files. The machine is easily doable with a few 3D printable pieces


You can build it yourself:

.stl files at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201052

Detailed build instructions and code:

http://www.open-electronics.org/spherebot-reloaded-customize-your-xmas/

Marry Xmas people!!!! HO  HO HO!





RepRap TK300 3d printer

TK300 by RockyShi is on Thingiverse now ... information may be limited, design looks sturdy, it is made with steel side plates and CNC aluminum connecting parts ...



























From Thingiverse description:
  • Ultimaker main board, will change to Rumba soon
  • dual DD2 extruders, direct driving
  • dual metal hotends E3D with cooling fans,Fast heat up
  • lcd controller
  • use prontface,cura or other opensource software
  • 1.75mm ABS or PLA filament
  • Fast change filament function
  • Steel cabinet for power supply and electronics
  • Borosilicate glass
  • Mk2a 300mm pcb heatbed with 24v,can reach 140 centigrade
  • building size 300*300*320mm
  • layer thickness 0.1-0.4mm
  • Steel side plates
  • CNC aluminum connecting parts
  • Modular packing

Dual extruder version:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212131

Base version:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212115


















Cherry Pi Delta DIY 3D Printer by AndyCart

Deltas are everywhere ... here is new one by AndyCart ...

From Thingiverse description:
This is my own variant of a variety of 3D printer designs available. I have used ideas from Kossel, Delta Pi, 3DR and, of course, Rostock. Many thanks to the designers of those machines for their brilliant ideas that I have shamelessly 'Cherry Picked' hence the name of my design!
The rods on my printer are 277mm from steel ball centre to centre. The towers are 800mm Bosch/Rexroth aluminium extrusion and the base frame extrusions are 250mm long as are, obviously, the top frame extrusions. You need nine in all.
The bearing carriers use 6 623 10mm x 4mm x 3mm bearings and slide directly on the extrusion. Nut traps for M3 nuts are included in the carrier. The rods connect to the carrier with a plate that fastens with 3 M3 bolts, again nut traps are included. The rod carriers and the effector plate hold 10mm x 5mm countersunk, cylindrical rare earth magnets and my rod end balls are 8mm diameter. My rods are 5mm carbon tube but you could use 6mm aluminium. My rod end balls have a 10mm M5 threaded rod and are the type used for the ends of gas struts, etc. the idea of the seperate rod carriers was to enable different rod attachment methods but the magnets and balls have worked out fine for me.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:210028



Think and Have DIY 3D printer




























think&have 3D printer is simple and durable 3D Printer, developed in Hamburg, Germany, based on RepRap Wallace (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18829), using two base parts from Printrbot (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16990).

The improvements are:
  • bowden extruder for less moved masses, 
  • special kevlar line drives (no belts) for x and y, 
  • metric design, 
  • only few vitamins, 
  • easy adjustable bed, 
  • alloy / steel bed for fast heating and good heat dissipation 
  • more stability on y and z motor mounts
think&have 3D printer Thingiverse page: 

Objects printed with think&have 3d printer

DIY Archery with 3d printer - various accesories

Archery is great field for using 3d printers. Many things can be produced, repaired and replaced. Here are some:

DIY Arrow Nock





http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:203761


DIY Arrow Fletch Protector / Straightener







DIY Arrow Accessories Box






All projects are by Mirran

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