Retro designed 3d printer in post-WW2 table saw frame

I LOVE the design of this 3d printer made by Chad Bridgewater! It is a true piece of art! This custom combines modern technology and vintage design as he developed his 3d printer based on a frame of old post-WWII Craftsman table saw.  He re-purposed this two machines for his MFA thesis and he will aslo present old press drill turned int CNC mill.

Here is his NOS 3d printer in old table saw:




Kudos Chad! You Sir are a master craftsman!

You can see more details and much more pictures at his blog here:

http://chadbridgewater.blogspot.com/2015/03/nos-3d-printer.html

He also made a laser engraver in post-WW2 table saw:

http://chadbridgewater.blogspot.com/2015/03/nos-laser-engraver.html



Thanks for the tip Franklin Flood!

Here you can see hiss drill press upgraded into CNC router:

http://chadbridgewater.blogspot.com/2015/04/drill-press-turned-cnc-router.html

... and some photos from his MFA exhibition:

http://chadbridgewater.blogspot.com/2015/04/a-few-more-from-my-mfa-exhibition.html

Cool toolboxes!

Update:

Chad has a new project:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/06/converting-old-toolbox-into-diy-3d.html



Aakar Brainboard v2 Indian open source control electronics

Aakar Brainboard v2 is a new modular open source electronic controller board from India .

Here is the summary from the Indiegogo campaign page:
Aakar means Shape in Hindi. Aakar Brainboard v2 is a modular CNC controller board based on LPC1768/69 Cortex-M3 chip. Due to its modular design it allows easier upgrades as per requirements and easy replacement if there is any broken part. It runs on open source Smoothie modular firmware and is targeted at 3D Printers, Laser cutters, CNC Mills, Pick and Place and other small or Mid-size CNC machines. Upgrade your machines for higher performance and features.



Here is more detailed presentation:




Aakar Brainboard v2 tech specs:

Microcontroller
  • NXP LPC 1768 32-bits Cortex-M3 MCU, running at 100Mhz. 512kB Flash, 64kB RAM.
  • Drag and drop flashing : simply drop a new firmware file to the Aakar drive to update.
  • USB2 Composite device : shows to the computer as both a Serial device, and a Mass Storage device ( exposing the SD-card).
  • Ethernet.
Power outputs
  • Up to 3 through hole 10A, Mosfets sharing a power circuit.
  • Up to 2 Mosfets with options of regulated 12V output for Fans.
  • One Mosfet with separate power supply 20A, up to 36V.
  • One optically isolated DPDT relay ~240V,5A for driving AC loads like milling tools or vacuum pumps.
  • Regulated 5V and 12V headers.
  • Two standard servo connector powered from onboard 5V regulator.
Inputs
  • 4 Thermistor (12-bit ADC ) inputs.
  • 6 Endstop inputs.
  • Play/Pause LED and Button
  • Connector for Serial Graphic LCD Panel with encoder and buzzer.
Firmware
  • SD bootloader customized for Aakar Brainboard allows drag and drop firmware upgrades.
  • Runs the highly-modular Smoothieware firmware.
Stepper drivers
  • 3 to 5 Allegro A4983 or DRV8825 stepper driver modules.
  • Each capable of driving bipolar steppers up to 35V and 2A(DRV8825).
  • Microstepping control of individual stepper to give greater flexibility.
Power inputs
  • True single input power operation by configuring jumpers(by default jupers are configured in this state).
  • Main 12-24V (Stepper drivers ) power can be connected using a 5mm screw terminal or standard 2x2 ATX CPU power connector.
  • 5V input can be taken directly from the USB cable or supplied by a 5V switching regulator installed on the board.
  • Series fused input for heated bed MOSFET with seperate power input.
Extensibility
  • Regulated 12V and regulated 5V headers.
  • 1 SPI connector with selectable 3.3V or 5V vcc.
  • 1 SPI/UART connector with selectable 3.3V or 5V vcc
  • 1 I2C connector with selectable 3.3V or 5V pull-ups and vcc.
  • 1 I2C/UART connector with selectable 3.3V or 5V vcc.
  • 1 UART connector FTDI cable compatible pinout.
  • All GPIO pins broken out on headers.
  • 4 LEDs.
  • Stepper signal pins are broken out for connection external stepper drivcers.
  • Serial graphic LCD panel with rotary encoder or push button control panel, many connectivity options.
Design
  • Dimensions are 110x150mm.
Aakar website:



3D printed robotic arm controlled by FRDM-KL25Z MCU

3D printed robotic arms seem to be very popular projects to develop. Here is a new one controlled by FRDM-KL25Z MCU and powered by stepper motors.

It was dsigned and made by hackaday.io user "madivak" for his undergraduate level course. Hopefully he releases the files to the public.






Video of the arm moving:



Project homepage: http://hackaday.io/project/4181-robotic-arm-project

Here is another video with author and robot in action:


Presentation day, robotics unleashed.
Alexx Makau mazoeano uwache... u should quit photography u r very BAD at it, focus on what u r good at.. we all know what that is..hehheh AFRICA with robotics. Full details at https://hackaday.io/madiva DIY 3D Printing Freescale Semiconductor Robotic Arm
Posted by Madiva Graf on Tuesday, April 28, 2015


To see more powerful 3d printed robotic arm look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/03/powerful-3d-printable-robot-arm-for.html

Alligator is new powerful open source control unit for your 3d printer or CNC

Alligator board is a new powerful electronic control unit for your 3d printer or similar CNC device. You can get it for 120 euro on their Indiegogo fundraiser.



Learn more about Alligator board or get your own unit at:

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/alligator-board-professional-3d-printer-controller

Best of all: Alligator is open source hardware!

Alligator Board Repetier Firmware on Github
























Overview of Alligator versus other boards:


Autodesk Ember SLA 3d printer review and maintenance by Adafuit

Ruiz brothers from Adafruit did a very useful review and operations manual for Autodesk Ember SLA 3d printer. They go trough many aspect of it including basic maintenance and Hall sensor troubleshooting.

Basic review of Ember:




More detailed guide, operations manual and usage tips:




Here is a very detailed guide on how to use Ember, basic maintenance and even how to repair the Hall sensor so you can align the printer:

https://learn.adafruit.com/ember-3d-printer

Here are some guides on how to hack Autodesk Ember.

Always wear gloves when working with resin

How to use inductive distance sensor and Mk3 aluminum hotbed for automatic bed leveling

3D Proto, creator of dual parking extruder, made an excellent video about how to install and use inductive distance sensor with Mk3 aluminum hot bed. This combination enables you to reach much better quality of ABS prints. With inductive distance sensor bed leveling you can:
  • Save lot of time by not having to have to mess with springs and screws on your print bed. Run the auto leveling routine before every print or just one time for each start-up of the printer.
  • Less issues related to non level print beds like parts coming up on one corner and nozzles jamming because the print started too close.
Inductive distance sensors are very cheap so it makes me wonder why are they not used by more 3d printers for automatic bed leveling?
If you wont to see full guide on how to install and use it with Marlin go to:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/

Inductive distance sensor on the extruder paired to Marlin firmware constantly corrects the distance to print surface

Diagram showing how to connect inductive distance sensor to control unit ie. Ramps

Combined with Mk3 Alu heated bed gives much better ABS prints like in this example where you can see very strait walls




Here is the video guide:



Source: http://3d-proto.de/

How to copyright your 3d printed work

Copyright is one of the most important issues of our age. Do you know how to use it to protect your 3d printing work? What can be copyrighted? What can you licence on a 3d object?

Here is an excellent White Paper guide written by Michael Weinberg on how to licence elements of your 3d printed / 3d printable object. It is a must read for anyone dealing with 3d printing and design!

Here is an short overview from the document:
A Three-Step Process In order to understand what it is you are licensing, this paper proposes a three-step process:
Figure out which elements of your object or object file are eligible for copyright protection
This can be much harder in the world of physical objects than it is with exclusively digital works. Unlike with code or photographs, with physical objects you may actually have to search out what parts are and are not protected by copyright. You may also need to make a distinction between the object and the file that represents the object—something that rarely occurs in the more traditional copyright world. While this can be complicated, this paper will try to make it as intuitive and straightforward as possible.

Understand what copyright does—and does not—allow you to control

Although it sometimes can feel otherwise, a copyright that protects a work does not control every use of that work.1 Understanding what your copyright allows you to control— and what remains out of your control—is critical to thinking about how to license things. For example, you may have a copyright on a file that represents an object, but not on the object itself. In that case, you should be clear-eyed about the fact that even the most restrictive license on the file will not stop people from reproducing the object without your permission.

Choose your license

After you understand what parts of your work are protected by copyright, and what that copyright protections actually mean, it is time to think about licensing. Once you understand what you have the legal right to control, you can start deciding how you want to exercise that control. This Paper is Only About Copyright Your 3D object might be protected by more than copyright. It could be protected by patent, or by trademark.

So why is this paper only about copyright?

Mostly because copyright protection is free. If you create something that is eligible for copyright protection, it automatically gets copyright protection free of charge. There are good reasons to register your copyright, but registration is not required for protection. This means that you get a copyright without ever filling out paperwork, consulting a lawyer, or even wanting it in the first place

Here you can download the entire guide in PDF format:

https://www.publicknowledge.org/assets/uploads/documents/3_Steps_for_Licensing_Your_3D_Printed_Stuff.pdf

This White Paper was published by Public Knowledge on March 06, 2015: Public Knowledge is a non-profit Washington, D.C.-based public interest group that is involved in intellectual property law, competition, and choice in the digital marketplace, and an open standards/end-to-end internet.

Only issue that needs further clarification is how 3d printing copyright works in international environment. You create a 3d object in one country, publish it on a repository in second county, someone in third country downloads it and does something against your licence...



THE BATTLE OF COPYRIGHT
Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:THE_BATTLE_OF_COPYRIGHT.jpg
Here are some guidelines for patent research:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/04/how-to-research-3d-printing-patents.html


Photo log of 3d printing fully functional mechanical keyboard

Redditor wildpanic posted his build log on /r/3dprinting about his making of fully functional 3d printed mechanical keyboard.
It is printed from two parts due to print surface limitations but the end result looks great!







Here is the full photo build log:



Full Reddit thread about this keyboard is here:

http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/2zlhs1/3d_printed_mechanical_keyboard/

If you are more interested in chorded keyboard that is more compact and will earn you some serious geek points take a look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/09/make-your-own-3d-printed-diy-chorded.html

How to upgrade early Printrbot Simple from fishing line to belt drive

If you own an early version of wooden Printrbot Simple from 2013 / 2014 that is powered by Kevlar fishing line you may want to upgrade it to belt drive.
Jason Bowling made a very detailed guide on the entire process that will upgrade you small Printrbot. Kudos Jason!







Detailed guide with pictures:

http://shortcircuitsandinfiniteloops.blogspot.in/2015/02/gt2-belt-drive-conversion-of-printrbot.html?m=1

How to fit nuts and bolts into 3d printed parts with heat

Here is a short video showing the process of fitting a nut and threaded rod into a 3d printed part that doesn't fit. Basically the nut is heated and melted into the part.
The is no problem that can not be solved by applying some force to it :-)



Thnx Kris S for sharing it!




SPRING Technologies to attend Aeromart Montreal 2015

SPRING Technology to attend the 4th International Business Convention for the Aerospace industry in Montreal from March 30th until April 2nd 2015.





Location:
Montreal Convention Center
1001 Place Jean-Paul Riopelle
Montréal (Québec) Canada


For more details on the event click here

SPRING Technologies announces NCSIMUL Tool 2.6… a new version that brings more automation, enriched functionality and Cloud capability

NCSIMUL Tool 2.6

Time-saving, enhanced traceability and flexibility

SPRING Technologies, vendor of solutions that maximize the productivity of NC machine tools, announces version 2.6 of NCSIMUL Tool, its real-time cutting tool data and process management solution.

Optimised cutting parameter traceability, greater flexibility, computing power, and enhanced ergonomics with direct access to elements from the assemblies window offer NCSIMUL Tool users all the functionalities they need to achieve greater and more secure productivity.

Another key new feature of NCSIMUL Tool 2.6 is the partnership with Machining Cloud enabling uses to directly access and download very precise cutting tool data (3D models, cutting conditions, and tool parameters), supplied by the world's leading tool makers such as Kennametal and WIDIA.

“By teaming up with Machining Cloud and harnessing our leading-edge technologies, we have enhanced NCSIMUL Tool 2.6, which now offers quick and easy tool updates, better traceability and optimal security via the Cloud”, explains Olivier Bellaton, Managing Director, SPRING Technologies.
The main new features of NCSIMUL Tool 2.6
  • Data imports via the Cloud with Machining Cloud;
  • Enriched user experience;

For more details click here

LitePlacer DIY pick and place machine with camera guidance

Juha Kuusama developed a DIY pick-and-place machine inspired by Shapeoko CNC router. It is fully functional with computer vision / camera effector guidance, BOM import and precise enough to place 0402 parts with the vacuum head.

It is still not rough enough to take full production quantities but is more suited for small series of PCBs at 200-400 components per hour. The accuracy is limited and it can not yet do 0201s.








Very impressive video introduction and demonstration:



Here is the project homepage where you can get all the plans and custom software or buy a kit for 1199 euro:

http://www.liteplacer.com/

if you want to build it yourself, guide is at:

http://www.liteplacer.com/the-machine/assembly-instructions/

LitePlacer hardware is licensed under Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

If you are interested in PCB manufacturing also check: FirePick 300USD DIY Delta pick-and-place or how to hack your 3d printer into solder paste dispenser.

TwinTeeth home manufacturing PCB factory mulitool with 3d printer

There are more and more home manufacturing tools and TwinTeeth is one of the more developed I saw.
It is a multitool reversed Delta machine mainly orientated towards PCB manufacturing but it can serve as 3d printer also. It is fully open sourced with plans so you can easily build it yourself or customize it to your needs. True ability for distributed manufacturing.

It has following functions and exchangeable tool options:
  • UV Laser photoengraving on sensitive film or pre-sensitized boards using an ultraviolet laser.
  • Drilling vias and holes using any mini-rotary tool like Dremel® or Proxxon®.
  • Dispensing solder paste with precision on SMD PCB pads.
  • Plotting circuits with a permanent pen-maker
  • 3D printing knobs, casings, front-panels, even print circuits with conductive filament, or make circuits supports.
  • Milling/Carving soft materials or etching PCB copper with a v-bit (if you prefer this etching method).
TwinTeet core inverse Delta and replaceable toolheads in front of it







Here is a video of it in action:



TwinTeeth technical specifications from the project page:
  • Working area (X,Y,Z): 70x80x60mm reduced considerably to an “Arduino™ shield-size” because it's preferred to do something small but precise. Users rarely create big circuit boards and reducing the working area has some benefits: the robot is cheaper, more precise, more robust, smaller and more manageable. However, it’s scalable, so you can make it bigger if you want.
  • Motion: TwinTeeth is powered by three Nema 17 motors, lead-screws and anti-backlash nuts.
  • Speed: it can go as fast as 1200-1500mm/min.
  • Code: it supports G-Code, postscript and BMP files. Eagle CadSoft can export to postscript format very easily. Support BMP files means than in addition to PCBs it can also print and etch photos on copper, alu or bronze.
  • Laser: using the same PHR-803T optical pickup than DiyouPCB with a wavelength of 405nm.
  • Rastering: the robot draws the PCB circuits in rastering mode in a similar way any paper printer does: moving the laser (or the bed in our case) from one side of the printer to the other.
  • Resolution: In rastering mode it's printing at 600DPI resolution. The laser beam spot is approx. 0.04 wide when is focused. Incredibly thin! Theorically mechanical precision is 0.94um.
  • Auto bed-levelling – it keeps the bed flat with a tolerance of less than 0.01mm while the robot is moving. It’s very important to improve printing quality and provide precision.
  • Auto-Focus: - small focus differences on the PCB surface affect printing quality so implemented a robust focusing system which takes some points on the PCB and extrapolates the results with a bilinear equation. With that info the robot adjusts the focus automatically while printing.
  • Infrared focusing: the auto-focus system uses an infrared laser to avoid film blurring. Films or presensitized boards are only sensible to ultraviolet light.
  • Electronics – using the well known combination of Arduino™ Mega + RAMPS 1.4 + A4988 Motor Drivers. Improved the Pickup Driver Circuit developed for DiyouPCB and now it includes new features.
  • Precision fixture bed – it is very important to keep the PCB fixed to the bed while the robot is moving. Also, when printing two-sided PCBs you have to be sure that both sides are correctly aligned. TwinTeeth includes a precision aluminium fixture bed and dowel pins which allow correct fixing and positioning of the PCBs. A stencil is also included which helps to drill the PCB’s 4-positions holes.
  • Camera – included a small USB camera because it is difficult to see tiny details on high-density PCBs. The camera is also useful to set the home position which is very important to obtain accuracy.
  • 3D Printing:  FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) with 1.75mm PLA/ABS and a 0.35mm extrusion nozzle. Printing quality is similar to any 3D printer you can find in the market.
TwinTeeth software:
  • TwinTeeth Firmware: deeply modified Marlin firmware to support multiple tools, manage and control the laser, implement the auto-focus system, print in rastering mode, improve the buffering, and much more.
  • TwinTeeth Management Console – TwinTeeth comes with a new easy-to-use management console which includes functionality specially designed for the multi-tool environment. Included functions to calibrate the printer, move the axis (jogging), and adjust the parameters of each tool. This software communicates with the robot through an USB 2.0 port.
  • TwinTeeth Eagle ULPs – developed some ULPs (Eagles’s user language programs) to generate the drilling and paste dispensing g-code files. You can also use the files generated by other ULPs like PCBCode.
  • Eagle Cadsoft – It is a popular electronic CAD software company. They provide a freeware version for non-commercial use. It easily generates the postscript, drilling and solder paste dispensing files which TwinTeeth uses to make the circuits.
  • 3D Slicing software– for 3D printing you can use any slicer software like Slic3R or Cura.

TwinTeeth homepage:

http://www.diyouware.com/front

Since it is an open source project you can get all the files to make it here and start your own home PCB factory:

http://www.diyouware.com/twth_getit


How to build the cheapest DLP SLA 3d printer for under 500$ including projector

This is probably the cheapest DLP SLA 3D printer that you can build yourself for some 500 USD including the projector!

"Little Dipper" has a simple design that anyone can replicate with some basic DIY skills and it makes prints with reasonable quality.
The most expenisve par is the projector which you can get dfor some 350 USd new, but you could probably get it used somewhere. Other parts include simple z axis movement (screw or belt driven) on wood frame and Ramps 1.4 or Arduino controlled electronics.

Simple plastic vat and z axis screw drive

Objects 3d printed on Little Dipper

Objects 3d printed on Little Dipper. You can see the layers, but the quality is still great for the price.

Objects 3d printed on Little Dipper


Little Dipper DIY DLP Sla 3d printer. You can see all the elements with DLP projector on top.

Here is the project description from the makers:

How it works?
A DLP projector is used to cure UV setting resin one layer at a time while a moving axis drops incrementally into the vat of resin. A projected slice cures each layer and builds the part. This style of resin printer is different from a FormLabs 3D printer and some others in two ways.
  1. It uses a DLP projector rather than a laser to cure each layer.
  2. It shines the light source from the top rather than up from the bottom.
Advantages over laser based bottom up and DLP bottom up designs:
  • Simplicity
  • Lower start-up cost
  • Modifiable to bottom up
  • Fast build (~1 evening)
Major Components and Materials:

DLP projector

There are 2 known choices, although others may work.
  1. Acer P1283 DLP Projector
  2. Acer H6510BD DLP HD projector
Linear Slide/Axis

Almost any linear axis that is belt driven or screw driven will work. Project uses a minimal version of this:
http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/v-slot-lead-screw...
A more budget minded and adventurous person could even choose a drawer slide, but you may find that rigidity and smooth sliding in the z-axis will be a useful feature.

4x4 sheet of 1/2in MDF or equivalent material and hardware

The version shown here is as simple as it gets. 2 pices of MDF cut to provide a mount for the axis, projector and stable footing for the machine. Pretty much any kind of enclosure can be designed for this 3D printer. Your main objective is frame rigidity and ambient light blocking.

Ramps 1.4 or Arduino based electronics capable of running at least (1) nema 17 stepper motor
This build features a RAMPS 1.4 board, stepper drivers and an Arduino Mega 2650 with standard Sprinter firmware. There are some basic modifications needed depending on the hardware you choose. None of these modifications constitute needing to know anything in-depth about programming. The firmware used is modified for 5/16 standard threaded rod and has end-stops disabled. You can modify this firmware using the Arduino environment to further suit your needs.

UV Resin

Makerjuice.com, Madesolid.com are the two most seemingly popular and affordable options for UV resin suitable for DIY resin printers such as the one featured in this build. This build has been tested with G+ from Makerjuice. Funtodoo, Form1+ and Spark/Ember resin formulations are likely suitable.

Build Platform and Plastic Tupperware vat

This build includes plans for a build platform that fits a specific set of Tupperware available at "wallyworld". The benefit to the type chosen in this build is that you get a variety of sizes that scale easily, so that extensive design modifications are not needed. You will also need additional containers for post-cure/clean up of your resin parts.

Control Software and Slicer

Creation workshop is used to control and slice 3D models. Download Creation Workshop here.


Here is Instructables page of a project with detailed build guide, software and everything nneded to build it:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Little-Dipper-SLADLP-3D-printer-for-under-500-proj/

This project was developed by Instructables user "marshallpeck". Kudos to you sir! You can also see more at: https://www.facebook.com/protobuilds/ or http://protobuilds.com/ .

All the recent developments in SLA 3d printing make me think that it is the future for home and hobby 3d printing. We need more affordable resin materials and more low cost parts.

UPDATE:

Thanks to Reddit commentator "Panaetius" here is a link where you can start to research on how to hack or prepare a DLP projector for using it for SLA 3d printing. It describes basic concepts and example of modifications to color wheel focus / lens mechanism and UV filters.

http://www.os-rc.com/en/ilios-documentation-page/37-11-projector-modifications

UPDATE:

Chimera is even cheaper SLA DLP machine made from second-hand and scrpa parts for under 60USD:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/10/chimera-dlp-3d-printer-you-can-build.html




Wood Basics


This post contains information on wood, the different species, its structure, different figures, and its use as a material for construction.

Wood Species

There are over 100,000 different species of wood. Some species are full size trees and others are from small woody shrubs. In common commercial use there are dozens of species harvested in the United States and many more from around the world.


Hardwood and Softwood

Trees are divided into two classes: Hardwoods and Softwoods. The hardwoods such as Oak, Poplar, and Maple have broad leaves. In general softwoods, such as Pine and Fir, originate from cone-bearing trees. Hardwoods come from trees that have their seeds contained in a seed-case.

Hardwood and softwood do not specifically refer to how hard the wood is. For example Balsa is a hardwood and yet is very soft.

The Structure of Wood

Wood can be thought of as a collection of drinking straws - where each straw is one of the fibers of the wood. These straws run along the axis of the tree, that is up the length of the tree or along its branches. These straws are what carry the sap of the tree which supplies nutrients to the tree between the leaves and the ground. The straws are the fibers of the wood and a view of them on edge is the what makes the grain of the wood.


The grain direction is along the fibers of the wood:

Grain Direction

As a way to refer to the faces of a milled board woodworkers often use the terms Face Grain,
Side Grain, and End Grain. These are shown below:

Figure

Figure refers to the appearance of wood on its face grain surface (what we think of as the face of the board). The figure can range from subtle to spectacular. Species which are sought after for the figure include, Maple (Curly, Birdseye), Lacewood, White Oak (Quartersawn) and many others.

Subtle Figure - Holly:

Highly Figured - Curly Maple:

Birdseye Maple: 

Quilted, Birdseye Maple:

Fiddle back:

Quartersawn Pine:

Quartersawn White Oak:

Quartersawn Zebrawood:

This image shows how Quartersawn boards are cut from a tree:


As you look at the end grain of the board you can see why the face grain runs in straight parallel lines - the growth rings meet the edge face of the board nearly perpendicular to it:


Heartwood / Sapwood

Sapwood is the living, outermost portion of a branch, while heartwood is the no longer active, inner wood, which often makes up the majority of a branches' cross-section.

This sapwood is where water and dissolved nutrients (minerals) are moved between the roots and the leaves of the tree. In the outer growth rings of a tree (those closes to the bark - away from the center) sap flows through the "straws" of the wood.

Often the sapwood is a different color than the heartwood. In most species, the sapwood is lighter than the heartwood.

An exception to the sapwood being lighter is Sycamore. Its sapwood is darker than the heartwood.


How Wood is Measured and Sold

Lumber is often priced by a quantity known as a board foot. 

Board Foot

A board foot is a measure of volume. The proportions of the wood doesn't matter - only the space it occupies. A single board foot (1 BDFT or BF) is equivalent to a piece 12" x 12" x 1". That's 144 cubic inches of wood (12 x 12 x 1 = 144). A board that is 2' long, 3" wide, and 2" thick is also one board foot - that's the same volume  (24 x 3 x 2 = 144 cubic inches). Two board feet (2 BDFT) could be, for example, 12" x  6" x 4".

4/4, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4, 12/4, 16/4

Wood is normally sold using its thickness as a measure. You'll hear people discuss "four quarter", "eight quarter", etc. This refers to the thickness of the wood in the rough. For example 4/4 ("four quarter") is 4/4 of 1" thick, or 1". But that is not a usable dimension. The wood is in the rough, sawn right out of the tree, and not yet surfaced. That is, it has not been planed (run through a machine which flattens and smooths the face). Nor has it been jointed (run across a machine which flattens and straightens an edge). Once planing has been performed, the wood is thinner than 4/4. It is normal to assume that if you want a 1" finished size you'll need to buy 5/4. After planing it'll be a full 1" thick. 4/4 wood is usually about 3/4" thick after planing.

It is hard to come by wood thicker than 16/4. In fact for many species it is hard to even get 8/4 material. Here you can see a list of species available form one source in Michigan: Armstrong Millworks. Note how few species are available in 16/4 or even 12/4.

Premium for Larger Sizes

Often wood is sold at a premium price for wider or longer boards. That is, even though the volume is greater for these boards, there is an additional charge per board foot for them. That's because it is harder to come by wider or longer boards. And therefore the sellers is justified in upping the price.


Gluing Wood

There is a lot of information about successfully gluing wood. In this post I'll provide a summary of some of the most important considerations.

Glue

There are many types of wood glue. For simplicity I'll focus on one manufacturer - Titebond. The company make a number of different varieties based on the conditions of the wood and the eventual use of the object you are gluing. For example they make a waterproof variety for outdoor use. You can use the Glue Product Selector on their main page for selection help. For typical indoor use, a good choice is Titebond I.

Applying Glue

Manufacturers recommend applying glue to both surfaces that are to be glued. This ensures that each gets "wet" with glue and there aren't any dry spots which don't get enough glue.

Timing is also very important in glue ups. The "open time" for a glue varies. For Titebond Original it is about 10-15 minutes. If you need a bit more open time you can use Titebond III, then you'll be in the 15-20 minute range. After that time the glue is already curing and is difficult to push joints together, or the glue will not develop it's full strength.

Temperature is also a consideration. Gluing in too hot or too cold a setting is a problem - particularly having the glue cure in cold conditions. You should strive to keep the temperature of the material and glue at 50 degrees or above. If the glue cures in colder conditions it will not develop its full strength.

Grain Direction in Glue Ups

It is imperative you respect grain direction when you assemble a project made from wood.
The important consideration is to refrain from a cross-grain glue up. When you glue wood together edge to edge the grain of the pieces should be running in the same direction.

Here's a clear example of what goes wrong when you glue wood without respect to the grain direction. This is one of the first pieces of furniture I made - a small Shaker bedside table. What a sloppy drawer fit! But it gets worse.

The table top has breadboard ends. These are meant to hide the end grain of the top when seen from the side. I naively simply glued them bread board edges on, which is a worst case situation of a cross grain glue-up. 

The wood expands or contracts in width whereas the edge pieces do not expand in width. Something has to give and the top cracks. 


This photo was taken in winter, when the heat is on, and thus the relative humidity is low, so the wood has contracted. But it is locked in place by the side pieces and thus cracks develop as it shrinks. In the summer these cracks close up and are nearly invisible.

The International Wood Collectors Society

I am a lifetime member of the International Wood Collectors Society. This is a group of people who have a passion for working with wood, its identification, and collecting samples.
I have about 220 species in my collection. The standard sample size our members collect is 6" x 3" x 1/2".

Making induction heated extruder

Standard extruders are heated by simple resistive heaters and you basically need to push enough 12 or 24 V DC electric current trough a resistor and simple MOSFET.

Induction heated extruders would have many advantages over them: faster heating up, no high temperature insulation is needed and less thermal mass. All of this could make induction heaters light and fast.
Main disadvantage is the more complex electric circuits needed to power it and more complex control unit since it is using much higher voltage and hundreds of kHz AC.

Based on a paper on induction nozzles for 3d printing standard FDM nozzles have several problems:

  • Slow convergence to desired steady state temperature at extruder tip, (many seconds, up to several minutes) and 
  • slow feedback loop for temperature control, (from 100's of ms to s) 
  • Lack of fine-grain temperature control at extruder tip, in steady state, the entire metal nozzle is essentially soaked to, or near, the melting temperature. 
  • Inconsistent feeder response due to varying liquid plastic volume near tip and 
  • limits on filament and extruded plastic drop size 

The extruder tip with inductive heating coil would be physically similar in appearance, but would have several distinct differences:

  • Rather than a metal nozzle, it would be made of a thermally insulating, nonconductive material such as glass or boron nitride. 
  • The actual heated element would be buried inside the tip to make direct contact with the plastic 
  • The power for heating is transferred through electromagnetic coupling of a driving coil to the heated element. The heated element, (and the molten plastic around it), are thermally isolated from the rest of the extruder. 
  • By using inductive heating and passive, digital temperature sensing of the heating target at the nozzle tip, significant improvements can be made to the issues above, resulting in faster production of more isotropic/mechanically stronger plastic prototypes. Also, the above problems typically put a limit on useable filament size, something this system should be able to surpass. 

Here is the comparison of resistive heated extruder vs. induction heated extruder:

Resistive compared to inductive heated extruder head, schematics made by aka47



RepRap builder SB made a post about his induction heated extruder, here is his work and schematics:

Induction heated extruder, you can clearly see the induction coils


The induction coil heats the sleeve made from mild steel (ferromagnetic) while the stainless steel is not heated directly because it is not ferromagnetic.



The electronics schematics are not yet available.

You can get more details here:

http://builders.reprap.org/2009/05/induction-heating.html

To get more information on induction heating you can also check related project of induction heated solder iron:

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-metcal-13-56-mhz-rf-supply/

First post about induction heated extruder on RepRap forum:

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,481721

more detailed forum thread: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,55188,55262

GitHub repository with preliminary design, many useful materials and thesis work on induction heated extruders:

https://github.com/UBCRapid/Extruders/tree/master/InductiveHeating

There are other people actively experimenting with this concept like Bulent, who made the extruder and posted a YT video of it working (his videos are not in English, but you will get some insight):




Here is a video showing more details, but again language is not English:



Here is a Reddit thread on attempt to make one:

http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1uoqyw/induction_hotend_first_steps/

As someone noticed in the comments, it would be interesting to see the induction extuder based on filament with metal particles where induction heats the filament itself. Then you could reduce the mass even further.

Another thing to mention is a possibility that the induction coil will interfere with nearby electronics and maybe emit noisy radio waves. It could also interact with build platform or other parts causing heating or melting damage.

If you want to build a serious desktop induction heater for metal melting of larger pieces here is a link:

http://www.rmcybernetics.com/projects/DIY_Devices/diy-induction-heater.htm

Inductive heated extruders are also being adapted on large scale for plastics industry with many benefits inefficiency and power saving:



Amazon wants to patent 3d printing delivery van

Amazon wants to patent 3d printing in the delivery vans. You order something and they print it in the delivery van driving towards you. It's probably a move in some grand corporate strategy of taking over the world, defensive patenting or preventative patenting. I will not even try to forecast implications of this ...

You can see their full patent application HERE.

I always claimed that intellectual property / patent system is broken beyond repair and needs major reform.

All of this has been done in some form in the past:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/11/3d-printer-installed-in-electric.html

Here are some pictures form the patent application:



3D Hubs accepts Bitcoin!

3D Hubs, a local 3D printing service now accepts payments in bitcoin! This is a major step forward to truly decentralized manufacturing economy!

From their press release:

Amsterdam, March 9, 2015
  
Bitcoin gets physical with 3D Hubs  

Bitcoin payment service provider BitPay, and 3D Hubs, the world’s largest network of 3D printers, have just announced a collaboration that will integrate bitcoin payments through Adyen into 3D Hubs’ network of over 13,000 privately owned 3D printers globally.

The partnership follows the recent news of Adyen’s integration of bitcoin. 3D Hubs, ​the Airbnb for 3D Printers, ​ is on a mission to make 3D printing accessible to everyone by connecting all the world’s 3D printers. The 3D Hubs model decentralizes production and promotes sustainability by eliminating the need for long­distance shipping. ​Today, the 3D Hubs network is providing over one billion people with access to a 3D printer within 10 miles of their home. 3D printing began in the early 80s as a form of rapid prototyping. 

The original 3D printer, invented by Chuck Hull, involved using UV beams to solidify layers of liquid photopolymer in a vat. Since then, 3D printing has rapidly evolved, and 3D printers can now create products in a whole range of materials including plastics, resins, metals, ceramics, and even food. In fact, you can now create just about anything you can dream of. 

This partnership connects bitcoin ­ a decentralized currency ­ to 3D Hubs’ decentralized manufacturing network, further strengthening the global movement towards decentralized industry.






















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