Chipfuzer 3 D metal printer (version 2.0). This is the second prototype I made to improve the original design. It is smaller-12 inches wide, 12 inches deep and 12 3/4 inches tall. This model is fully enclosed and has safety features to keep the user safe from high voltage and harsh arc light produced on the build table.
The design also fully eliminates RFI produced by the arc process and makes a neat, tidy compact unit that can be easily transported and used anywhere.
The multicolored enclosure components are due to just having a little bit of each color paint in several cans on the shelf (low funds) and not representative of anything, or me trying to be overly "artsy".
I scaled down the X,Y and Z slide mechanisms but kept the build table the same as the first model, and the build size is nearly the same as the original. I am still tinkering with it a bit, but satisfied thus far with the new design.
This machine went together better and faster than the original, despite having to scavenger hunt parts, and make due with similar materials. In some places the unit is triple insulated, and the interior is covered in conductive coating and grounded. I think one more design and build will probably get me to a really good design for this idea, and will concentrate more on the software end of things from now on. Thus far I have made about a dozen prints with this, but plan on using this machine for most future experimenting.First post about Chipfuzer:
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| Chipfuzer V 2.0 - you can see the print chamber and arc welder tips |
Neat, but useful?
Currently I print my board on two transparencies, then aligning them on the UV-sensitized board, then placing whole thing under a UV light source. Two minutes of work followed by five minutes of wait?
This new method would have me remove the resin tank, align and mount the PCB to the build platform (double sided tape?), convert my gerbers to a jpg/bmp, then finally print to the 3D printer?
IF it’s saving time/money, it doesn’t appear that significant. Maybe if mounting and aligning the PCB was very quick and easy? Although I’m imagining a frustrating process involving double-side tape and wasted copper clad trying to correct the alignment.
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| Mach3 UI was always fascinating to me ... |
All upgrades in this video were printed using colorfabb PLA/PHA filament from http://printedsolid.com. It's fantastic material!
What's up Nerdgasm fans! This video will show you all of the things I've done since I received my Robo 3D printer to get it printing reliability with no hassles. Out of the box the printer never really performed well for me but after I tracked down the problems, made some tweaks and printed some upgrades I'm happy to report it works like a charm and is not giving me anymore problems! I hope that the information in this video is useful to you early adopters and helps you maximize your print quality when using this inexpensive printer. Don't give up guys, just like all technology like this tweaking is just a part of the experience and you will be very proud with the results once you do.
Get your own Robo3D printer @ http://robo3dprinter.comGet your material @ http://printedsolid.com
== Link's to printer upgrades ==
Z Axis Stabilizers [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126873]
E3D Print Head Fan Holder [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186027]
Top Mount Spool Holder [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188820]
Cable Holder [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:209034]
E3D Hotend [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-V5-1.75mm-D...]
One thing I forgot to mention in the video is to use 'Furnace Cement (from Amazon)' to secure the thermister (heat probe) to the print head instead of Kapton tape, it gives a much better connection between the censor and the block and the temps are far more stable as a result!
Special thanks to Harrison V and Braydon M for being a source of information and support while I got this Robo3D figured out!
When I first received the printer and unboxed it I had several problems I had to trouble shoot and figure out ranging from the bed leveling issues to inconsistent feeding issues. Over the weeks with help from the internet and the guys at Robo3D and PrintedSolid I was able to tweak, upgrade and tinker to get this printer to become a solid work horse just like my Ultimaker (But not as fast, but that is expected).
The biggest problem with this printed I have found is the print head. The stock print head on the ABS model (can't speak for the PLA model) seems to have a problem with the tube inside cracking causing oozing or temperature problems leading to material extruding too hot or too cool. I also had problems with it jamming and clearing a jam from it was a nightmare. I found upgrading to an E3D print head was the best solution since this print head can handle any material and has not jammed on me once yet!
I hope this was helpful for you guys, please let me know in the comments if this solved your problems or if you have other problems I don't address in the video (maybe I can work with them and address them in a future video). I also would like to know if you found better solutions to some of the problems then I did.
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| Haddon - first attempt in converting Ultimaker to H-bot |
If you are like me, you think H-bots are totally sexy. (No, not in that sense, shame on you!) You also have an Ultimaker. Now what to do... How about making a kit to convert an Ultimaker to an H-bot style gantry, but in a totally non destructive way, using a few parts from the original UM? The reason behind it, besides testing out an H-bot, was that while I love my Ultimaker, it's design is very unfriendly towards experimenting - it's so tight everywhere there's not much room to put new parts, and to change the print head you need to disassemble half of the printer. With this add-on, I can easily change parts, even the whole print head just by turning a few bolts. Also, if more drastic changes are needed. it takes 6 bolts to unplug it from the UM frame so it can be accessed from all sides.
Anyways, that all seemed like a fun idea so I set out to design something. After two days the UM to H-bot add-on was born - nicknamed Haddon. It has a lasercut frame which mounts snugly on top of the original UM frame, uses UM's linear rails, bearings and motors. The extra parts are a GT2 belt, two GT2 pulleys, some small bearings and a bunch of M3 nuts and bolts.
Now there's one very important thing about this version - it doesn't work. Having no experience with H-bots, I completely missed the fact that some serious forces appear while moving on the Y axis, and seems like the UM bronze bushings don't like those forces. In the end it moves, but does so pretty awkwardly. So, time to rebuild everything from scratch. The frame, pulley holders and motor mounts are good, so I need to make a new print head and carriages. This could be an issue since I sold my laser cutter a few days ago, and it will be at least a month or so till my new one arrives. I really like to lasercut everything I can instead of printing it, because it's way faster and more predictable, but I guess I'll just have to print everything out this time.
I've spent quite a lot of time moving the printhead around to get a feel of the whole system and how various parts influence each other while in motion, so I'm pretty sure I know what to do for the next version. Expect an V2 update in a few days, hopefully with some videos of it working.
For the build size obsessives among you, the XY size is basically the same, while you get some more space in Z, exactly how much remains to be seen when I finish everything.
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| Laser Bot hardware setup |
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| Laser Bot workflow |
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| Laser diode head |
This kit is a combination of the popular 1.7W 445nm Laser Diode Component and the 2.0 Amp matching laser driver kit with a 12V adapter. This includes everything you need to get your laser up and running in your product or project. We now even cable the laser with a Mini Fit Jr. connector at 2.5 feet to make it even easier to hook everything up! The kit includes:
1.7W 445nm Laser Diode Component (now with 2.5′ Mini Fit Jr. Connector Cable included)
2.0 Amp Adjustable Laser Diode Driver Kit, 8V Compliance
Power Adapter 12V 2A, US Style Plug
Laser Specifications:
This multi transverse mode laser diode component is pressed fit mounted in an aluminum housing and has an aluminum mountable heat-sink. The front of the component contains a glass collimating lens for the laser output.
Absolute Maximum Ratings:
Item Absolute Maximum Ratings Unit
Forward Current (Tc = 25°C) 1.7 A
Allowable Reverse Current (Tc = 25°C) 85 mA
Operating Case Temperature 50 °C
Electrical / Optical Characteristics
Item Min Typ. Max Unit
Optical Output Power 1.6 W
Dominant Wavelength 435 455 nm
Threshold Current 80 220 mA
Operating Voltage 3.7 5.5 V
Beam Divergence Full Anlge (1/e^2) // 5 14 25 deg.
Beam Divergence Full Anlge (1/e^2) – Perp 30 44 50 deg.
Driver Overview:
2 Amp Version, 12V adapter Kit
This version of the popular High Current Laser Driver offers up a lot of current in a small package for an excellent price. The design team perfected several versions of this driver to give a quality current source with a large compliance voltages with both adapter choices to be able to work with most every laser diode. They packed it with multiple features and made it capable of interfacing with even the oldest of your equipment in your lab or the newest wiz bang in your product or system. This version includes a 12V power adapter that will provide 8 volts at maximum load of 2 amps. This can be used to power higher voltage laser diodes in the 4-7 volt range like the 445nm laser diode component. It can also power IR laser diodes in the 2-4 volt range, but it might need additional cooling fan if left on for extended amounts of time.
This driver will provide 1 amp of constant regulated and protected current to the diode. Configurable current limits with jumpers for 0.5 and 1.0 amp settings and adjustable output with an analog trim pot. It also can be remotely controlled with an opto isolated input with a super huge range of acceptable voltages for turning your driver on and off. Does your equipment in your project or system that you want to interface with have backwards logic? No problem! There is a jumper for choosing inverted or non inverted logic as well! Perfect for integrating into any final product or project.
Features:
High power current source for driving Laser Diodes and Light Emitting Diodes.
Current Range of 2 Amps.
Current Ranges are adjustable in 500ma increments.
No need for extra cooling at maximum load. (depends on power adapter and compliance voltage.)
Soft start for diode protection.
Reverse diode and ESD protection.
Thermal Protection and Over Current Protection.
Compact Size.
CW Mode and Input Control Mode.
Digitally isolated control input.
Control from CW to 5KHz.
Configurable Input signal: Inverting /Non-Inverting.
Multiple connector options for both Laser/LED output and control input.
LED status lights for input laser enabled and laser on.
Optional fan for extra thermal stability.
Specifications:
Specification HCDBSA 2 AMP
Current Source Range: 0 – 2 Amps
Current Limit Jumper Settings: 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 Amps
Compliance Voltage w/7.5V adapter: 3.5 Volts
Compliance Voltage w/12V adapter: 8 volts
Current Resolution: 0.1%
Current Adjustment: Analog Trim Pot
Current Range Accuracy Always greater than limit, no more than 15%
Laser Diode Protection: Soft Start, Reverse Voltage, Current Limit, Thermal Shutdown
AC Adapter Input Voltage: 100 – 240 VAC
Control Signal Digital Isolation Voltage: 4500 Vrms
Minimum Control Signal ”Turn On” Voltage: 2.8 Volts
Control Signal Maximum Voltage: 36 Volts
Control Signal Maximum Current: 50 ma
Control Signal Maximum Frequency: 5KHz
Connectors: Screw Terminal and Molex Mini-Fit Jr™ Connectors
Operating Temperature: 0 to 40 °C
Storage Temperature: -40 to 70 °C
Dimensions: 2.85″ x 2.1″
