Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Simple DIY sensor for nozzle clogging and print failure detection

Florian Maurer developed a DIY sensor to register nozzle clogging and print failure.

It is easy to make since it consists of a rotary encoder, some thin foam tape, and some 3D printed parts with Arduino used to listen to the grey code from the rotary encoder and send the data over serial to a Python script.

When the filament slows down or stops due to a nozzle clog, the Python script plays a notification sound to let you know that you should check your nozzle and that your print might fail.


















Project homepage with more details and Python code needed:

http://www.cuddleburrito.com/blog/2015/6/11/preventing-failed-prints-with-filament-feed-encoder-and-arduino


How to embed electronic components into small objects during 3d printing


Jason Brownstein published a detailed tutorial on how to embed electronic components into 3d printed objects as they are being printed. He published the accompanying g-code also so you can adapt it for your projects. he used an example of a Lego block with small led light.



Detailed guide can be found at:

http://www.lunchboxelectronics.com/how-to-embed-electronics-into-a-3d-print

Make your own aluminum frame Ultimaker 2 clone

Jason developed Ultimaker 2 clone made with aluminum extrusion frame and 3d printed parts. According to his posts it work very well.

He describes it as:
This is not The Greatest UM2 Clone, no.
This is just a tribute.
This project began as a fun way to learn AutoDesk Fusion 360. I started by importing the entire Solidworks CAD file into a new Fusion 360 project, dropped the frame (walls) from the printer, built 20x20 Misumi aluminum extrusions to wrap the printer guts and then worked to build brackets to support all the parts that previously attached to the frame.
I've been printing nonstop on this new printer with the same precision and quality as my real UM2. In fact, I can use the same GCODE in either machine with identical results.



Video of this UM2 clone in action:



All the files and instructions can be found at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271


DIY digitizer with detailed construction guide

Nikolaj Møbius from Fablab RUC developed a simple and cheap DIY digitizer 3d scanner that can record points in a physical space and convert them into a 2D vector drawing for laser cutting or 3D printing.
It is made with three rotary encoders and gets a points measures controlled by Arduino. Since it currently does only measures more suitable for 2D capture it is ideal for CNC or laser cutting with very good results.
Since the software is in early development phase we can expect better 3d scanning or 3d point cloud capture soon.





Check out the project homepage with very detailed build guide and software:

http://fablab.ruc.dk/diy-digitizer/

It looks very easy to build even for the beginners.

Here is the description of current limitations:
So far the system is designed to record a 2D surface and convert it into a PDF vector file. The Z axis is simply ignored in the output. Since the system actually records in a 3D space it is possible to export a 3D object for post processing. This is mainly a matter of implementing a another export method.
However, since the arm is not able to reach around an object in a 3D space it will not be possible to record all the points necessary to make a full 3D object (Update: In the source files we have a version with a rotating platform now). One possible workaround would be to implement a rotating base which would enable the arm to approach the object from all sides. Further, the software is only a usable prototype, but could be evolved into a much more solid tool.
I like the plywood frame arm!




For a similar (but less documented) project look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/05/diy-contact-3d-scanner-with-arduino-and.html

For a really cheap laser and webcam based 3d scanner see Sardauscan:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/03/sardauscan-is-cheapest-diy-3d-scanner.html

PS:

I was wondering how to convert point cloud in some solid mesh by using free software and I found this tutorial with Meshlab:



Low cost 3d printable DIY DSLR shoulder rig and slider

Instructables user focamonca published two low cost DIY projects for you photography geeks out there. They are easy and very affordable: he made a DSLR shoulder rig and slider for some 200 dollars each.

Here is the shoulder rig demo:



Detailed build guide:

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-DSLR-Shoulder-Rig/


Here is the 3d printed DSLR slider for some 20 USD:




Build guide for it can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-DSLR-SLider-For-less-than-20/




How to make DIY ultrasonic vapor polisher for 3D printed objects

Micheal, well known for his TestrBot made another useful and easy DIY project that enables you to build ultrasonic vapor polisher for your 3d printed objects.






























Here is the project summary:

What's needed is a better solvent application method, and that's what this Instructable is about.
The current vapor polishing methods and their drawbacks include:
  1. Hot treat via boiling solvent in a crock pot or similar chamber (Potentially dangerous and very hands-on process)
  2. Cold treat via slow release of solvent from paper towels in an enclosed container (Very time consuming, can't observe parts during this process.)
  3. Spray canned solvent aerosol onto part. (Inconsistent surface finish, must be done outside)
  4. Dipping parts directly into liquid solvents (Unpredictable/inconsistent finish, Likely over exposure of part)
All I wanted is a machine that lets me quickly drop parts into a transparent container and be able to press 'go' and have the machine produce a predictable finish on its own. I do not want to have to put together a really involved setup that may be a fire hazard, fume hazard, or something that produces unpredictable surface finishes. Essentially I want something as convenient as a microwave. I'm also forgetful so I don't want my parts to be destroyed if I forget that I left them in the machine.
The Ultrasonic Misting 3D Vapor Polisher is the solution to all of these problems.
This key component of this machine comes from ultrasonic humidifier, which uses a piezoelectric transducer (like a speaker) to create a high frequency mechanical oscillation in a liquid. This vibration forms an extremely fine mist of droplets in a fog/mist. The density of the fog is controlled by varying the intensity of the vibrations via a potentiometer.
This fog mist is very dense and wont move far on its own, so I used an aquarium air pump to blow it from the misting chamber into the glass finishing chamber where it can condense on the 3D printed part. This airflow keeps the air moving inside the finishing chamber, which helps produce a consistent finish on the part. The airflow system is open by necessity but we do not want the exhaust air to become a fume hazard so there is a water bubbler on the exhaust to absorb excess solvent. (Note that this only protects you when using water miscible solvents such as acetone.)

Here is the video of machine in action and results of the treatment:



Detailed build guide can be found here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultrasonic-Misting-3D-Printing-Vapor-Polisher/

Here are results of strength tests with lots of charts:

http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FQQ/HMAJ/I98BK9P2/FQQHMAJI98BK9P2.pdf

Conclusion was:
The vapor treatment resulted in a consistent overall weakening of the test specimens. Specimens that had not been treated with Acetone vapor had an average yield stress 24% higher than those treated with the vapor.
Solvents that can be used to polish different materials:
  • ABS: Acetone
  • Acrylic: Most Solvents
  • PLA: MEK or 'MEK Substitute'
  • PVA: Water
  • PVC: Most Solvents
  • Polycarbinate: Pretty solvent resistant
  • Nylon: Pretty solvent resistant
  • Polypropylene: Pretty solvent resistant
  • Polyethylene: Pretty solvent resistant

Stay safe people! Chemicals are dangerous! You can check this chart showing dangerous combinations:

http://www.safety.vanderbilt.edu/chem/chem-compatibility-chart.pdf

Update (26.09.2016.):

Here is the upgraded PRO version of this vapor polisher made from simple plastic boxes:



Detailed construction guide can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Automated-Ultrasonic-Misting-3D-Print-Polisher-PRO/





Emerging synergy of lasers and 3d printers with real-time scanning and cutting

What is cooler then lasers? Well, lasers and 3d printers combined! duh! At some time at past I have argued on some forums that lasers will become integral parts of 3d printers and I was met with lot of opposition. There have been some attempts to integrate laser based 3d scanners into 3d printers even in commercial products but it is far from wide acceptance.
Yet, adding a laser with sensing electronics can give you so much more then just cheap 3d scanning.

Here is a video by Claudio Di Leo, MIT student, who attached a Infiniter VLM-650-27 line laser to a Solidoodle which uses a 2MP web camera to scan printbed enabling it to 3d print on place object. The entire upgrade costs some 50 USD but increases the ability of the machine.




Now, what would happen if you turn up the power on the laser?

There are several simple DIY laser cutter projects based on replacing the extruder but what if a laser cutter would be a separate tool moving independently?

Here is a video demonstration of laser cutting 3d printed PLA object. As you can see it can be done easily.




Here is a project with detailed guide and software on how to make springs with a laser cutter from different materials but also features PLA 3d printed tube:



Here are detailed instructions for spring laser cutter:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Cut-Helical-Springs/?ALLSTEPS

So, what could we achieve if we integrate active lasers into 3d printers:

  1. 3d scanning
  2. real-time scanning of print volume for continuous 3d print calibration, sensing failure and continuation of aborted prints
  3. 3d printing on objects attached to a print surface
  4. laser cutting printed objects giving new dimensions to 3d printed objects
  5. "standard" laser cutting of sheet materials, engraving and PCB processing
This could be the next big thing :-)




TestrBot DIY static dynamic tension and compression tester

Ever wanted to test your printed parts? Michael developed this project that uses 3d printed parts and can perform tension and compression test on various objects. It is very useful to get real results for different 3d printing materials and printing techniques. As it is easy to make with affordable price of around 300 USD it will certainly find place in many workshops.

Project description:
TestrBot is a $300 Universal Test Machine (UTM) and can be used to perform any type of static or dynamic testing in tension or compression up to 200 lbs. It was designed to run a gamut of physical tests on 3D printed specimens. 
3D printing is still new enough that there are many questions that do not yet have definitive answers. While the basic physical properties of raw ABS & PLA have been well established, there are still many esoteric material properties that cannot be determined without doing actual mechanical testing.
TestrBot is going to help the 3D printing community by figuring out these properties. As of this writing, I am at the beginning of the testing process but you can among the first to hear about the results as they become available by following blog here: www.EngineerDog.com



Here is TestrBot in action with description:



Detailed build guide and all the files needed:

http://www.instructables.com/id/TestrBot-The-300-Universal-Test-Machine/

Simple and affordable DIY hot end building tutorial

Andy M made this great video tutorial on how to make a simple and cheap metal hot end from affordable common parts.


Great job Andy!

For a tutorial on how to make a nozzle out of a single brass nut look at:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/09/how-to-make-3d-printing-hot-end-nozzle.html



Hacking Autodesk Ember

Here is a compilation of tutorials on how to hack and tweak your Autodesk Ember DLP 3d printer. It is interesting to see that this machine made by a major corporation can be easily open and tinkered with.

Accessing the control electronics block and USB to control the LCD projector




As always you do this on your own risk! Warranty will probably be voided. 


Here is a tutorial on how to increase power of Embers motors, unstuck frozen prints with brute force and make full volume printing easier. Motors will probably have shorter life span. Basic knowledge of electronics is needed.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Supercharge-Your-Ember/

How to access and control Embers internal Wintech projector via USB for more power and control. In theory it should enable higher speeds. This tutorial also goes into drivers and software.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Setting-Ember-for-More-POWER-or-how-to-control-the/

Here is some research and testing on how will the PDMS tray window clouding influence exposure time:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Window-clouding-in-the-Ember-printer/

... and to maintain the Ember resin tray: http://www.instructables.com/id/Resin-Tray-Care/

If you want to use different resins in Autodesk Ember, here is a guide on how to set it up and calibrate it:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-tune-Embers-print-settings-for-new-resins/

... and to calibrate the head: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Calibrate-Embers-Print-Head/

Here is simple guide on how to update Embers firmware:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-update-Embers-firmware/

You can find several more on Instructables: http://www.instructables.com/howto/ember/

How to upgrade Ember's motor control and front panel:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-Embers-Motor-Board-and-Front-Panel/

Here is a guide on how to disassemble Ember build arm:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ember-3D-Printer-Build-Arm-Teardown/

If you have any problems and want to remove the Ember projector here is detailed instruction page:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Remove-Embers-Projector/


There is also a way to get sub-pixel resolution on Ember which could also probably work on other DLP 3d printers. Here is the explanation video:




Here is the Instructables tutorial: http://www.instructables.com/id/Ember-Printer-How-a-Voxel-Grows/


How to make cheap Oculus Rift DK1 clone with help of your 3D printer

OpenVR is a cheap DIY virtual reality headset project based on Oculus Rift DK1 made on a 3d printed frame. It is relatively easy to make and will cost you around 150 USD. Project was developed by Ahmet Yildirim.

Main components:
  • Arduino Mini Pro
  • GY-85 9DOF IMU
  • USB to TTL Converter
  • 5.6” 1280×800 LCD Display
  • 12V Power Adapter for
  • 2x (50mm 5x Aspheric Lenses)
  • 3D Printed Case
  • Shoulder Sponge Pad
  • Some wires
Most of the software is open source.

Headset looks great. I'm huge fan of this '90tis cyberpunk look.




Here is a video of it in action playing Portal:



Detailed build guide with software and setup instructions:

http://www.instructables.com/id/OpenVR-Opensource-Rift-for-only-150/

for all the files look at: https://github.com/ayildirim/OpenVR

And check authors blog at: http://mclightning.com/

Another SF tech coming to relaity :-) Cheap homemade VR head set!

How to copyright your 3d printed work

Copyright is one of the most important issues of our age. Do you know how to use it to protect your 3d printing work? What can be copyrighted? What can you licence on a 3d object?

Here is an excellent White Paper guide written by Michael Weinberg on how to licence elements of your 3d printed / 3d printable object. It is a must read for anyone dealing with 3d printing and design!

Here is an short overview from the document:
A Three-Step Process In order to understand what it is you are licensing, this paper proposes a three-step process:
Figure out which elements of your object or object file are eligible for copyright protection
This can be much harder in the world of physical objects than it is with exclusively digital works. Unlike with code or photographs, with physical objects you may actually have to search out what parts are and are not protected by copyright. You may also need to make a distinction between the object and the file that represents the object—something that rarely occurs in the more traditional copyright world. While this can be complicated, this paper will try to make it as intuitive and straightforward as possible.

Understand what copyright does—and does not—allow you to control

Although it sometimes can feel otherwise, a copyright that protects a work does not control every use of that work.1 Understanding what your copyright allows you to control— and what remains out of your control—is critical to thinking about how to license things. For example, you may have a copyright on a file that represents an object, but not on the object itself. In that case, you should be clear-eyed about the fact that even the most restrictive license on the file will not stop people from reproducing the object without your permission.

Choose your license

After you understand what parts of your work are protected by copyright, and what that copyright protections actually mean, it is time to think about licensing. Once you understand what you have the legal right to control, you can start deciding how you want to exercise that control. This Paper is Only About Copyright Your 3D object might be protected by more than copyright. It could be protected by patent, or by trademark.

So why is this paper only about copyright?

Mostly because copyright protection is free. If you create something that is eligible for copyright protection, it automatically gets copyright protection free of charge. There are good reasons to register your copyright, but registration is not required for protection. This means that you get a copyright without ever filling out paperwork, consulting a lawyer, or even wanting it in the first place

Here you can download the entire guide in PDF format:

https://www.publicknowledge.org/assets/uploads/documents/3_Steps_for_Licensing_Your_3D_Printed_Stuff.pdf

This White Paper was published by Public Knowledge on March 06, 2015: Public Knowledge is a non-profit Washington, D.C.-based public interest group that is involved in intellectual property law, competition, and choice in the digital marketplace, and an open standards/end-to-end internet.

Only issue that needs further clarification is how 3d printing copyright works in international environment. You create a 3d object in one country, publish it on a repository in second county, someone in third country downloads it and does something against your licence...



THE BATTLE OF COPYRIGHT
Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:THE_BATTLE_OF_COPYRIGHT.jpg
Here are some guidelines for patent research:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/04/how-to-research-3d-printing-patents.html


How to upgrade early Printrbot Simple from fishing line to belt drive

If you own an early version of wooden Printrbot Simple from 2013 / 2014 that is powered by Kevlar fishing line you may want to upgrade it to belt drive.
Jason Bowling made a very detailed guide on the entire process that will upgrade you small Printrbot. Kudos Jason!







Detailed guide with pictures:

http://shortcircuitsandinfiniteloops.blogspot.in/2015/02/gt2-belt-drive-conversion-of-printrbot.html?m=1

How to fit nuts and bolts into 3d printed parts with heat

Here is a short video showing the process of fitting a nut and threaded rod into a 3d printed part that doesn't fit. Basically the nut is heated and melted into the part.
The is no problem that can not be solved by applying some force to it :-)



Thnx Kris S for sharing it!




How to build the cheapest DLP SLA 3d printer for under 500$ including projector

This is probably the cheapest DLP SLA 3D printer that you can build yourself for some 500 USD including the projector!

"Little Dipper" has a simple design that anyone can replicate with some basic DIY skills and it makes prints with reasonable quality.
The most expenisve par is the projector which you can get dfor some 350 USd new, but you could probably get it used somewhere. Other parts include simple z axis movement (screw or belt driven) on wood frame and Ramps 1.4 or Arduino controlled electronics.

Simple plastic vat and z axis screw drive

Objects 3d printed on Little Dipper

Objects 3d printed on Little Dipper. You can see the layers, but the quality is still great for the price.

Objects 3d printed on Little Dipper


Little Dipper DIY DLP Sla 3d printer. You can see all the elements with DLP projector on top.

Here is the project description from the makers:

How it works?
A DLP projector is used to cure UV setting resin one layer at a time while a moving axis drops incrementally into the vat of resin. A projected slice cures each layer and builds the part. This style of resin printer is different from a FormLabs 3D printer and some others in two ways.
  1. It uses a DLP projector rather than a laser to cure each layer.
  2. It shines the light source from the top rather than up from the bottom.
Advantages over laser based bottom up and DLP bottom up designs:
  • Simplicity
  • Lower start-up cost
  • Modifiable to bottom up
  • Fast build (~1 evening)
Major Components and Materials:

DLP projector
There are 2 known choices, although others may work.
  1. Acer P1283 DLP Projector
  2. Acer H6510BD DLP HD projector
Linear Slide/Axis

Almost any linear axis that is belt driven or screw driven will work. Project uses a minimal version of this:
http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/v-slot-lead-screw...
A more budget minded and adventurous person could even choose a drawer slide, but you may find that rigidity and smooth sliding in the z-axis will be a useful feature.

4x4 sheet of 1/2in MDF or equivalent material and hardware

The version shown here is as simple as it gets. 2 pices of MDF cut to provide a mount for the axis, projector and stable footing for the machine. Pretty much any kind of enclosure can be designed for this 3D printer. Your main objective is frame rigidity and ambient light blocking.

Ramps 1.4 or Arduino based electronics capable of running at least (1) nema 17 stepper motor
This build features a RAMPS 1.4 board, stepper drivers and an Arduino Mega 2650 with standard Sprinter firmware. There are some basic modifications needed depending on the hardware you choose. None of these modifications constitute needing to know anything in-depth about programming. The firmware used is modified for 5/16 standard threaded rod and has end-stops disabled. You can modify this firmware using the Arduino environment to further suit your needs.

UV Resin

Makerjuice.com, Madesolid.com are the two most seemingly popular and affordable options for UV resin suitable for DIY resin printers such as the one featured in this build. This build has been tested with G+ from Makerjuice. Funtodoo, Form1+ and Spark/Ember resin formulations are likely suitable.

Build Platform and Plastic Tupperware vat

This build includes plans for a build platform that fits a specific set of Tupperware available at "wallyworld". The benefit to the type chosen in this build is that you get a variety of sizes that scale easily, so that extensive design modifications are not needed. You will also need additional containers for post-cure/clean up of your resin parts.

Control Software and Slicer

Creation workshop is used to control and slice 3D models. Download Creation Workshop here.


Here is Instructables page of a project with detailed build guide, software and everything nneded to build it:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Little-Dipper-SLADLP-3D-printer-for-under-500-proj/

This project was developed by Instructables user "marshallpeck". Kudos to you sir! You can also see more at: https://www.facebook.com/protobuilds/ or http://protobuilds.com/ .

All the recent developments in SLA 3d printing make me think that it is the future for home and hobby 3d printing. We need more affordable resin materials and more low cost parts.

UPDATE:

Thanks to Reddit commentator "Panaetius" here is a link where you can start to research on how to hack or prepare a DLP projector for using it for SLA 3d printing. It describes basic concepts and example of modifications to color wheel focus / lens mechanism and UV filters.

http://www.os-rc.com/en/ilios-documentation-page/37-11-projector-modifications

UPDATE:

Chimera is even cheaper SLA DLP machine made from second-hand and scrpa parts for under 60USD:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2015/10/chimera-dlp-3d-printer-you-can-build.html




How to install simple and effective automatic bed leveling

GuruBrew has published this excellent video tutorial on how to make your own automatic print bed leveling.
It looks easy and it will help you with your calibration and improve print quality. It takes a normally closed micro switch and a small RC servo, customized Marlin firmware and 3d printed probe mechanism.

Here is the video guide:


Thank you for sharing Guru!


How to remotly control ATX power supply modes with Raspberry Pi and OctoPrint

Standard ATX power supply unites are widely used to give electricity to 3d printers. Instructables user "mfoster" published a very useful tutorial on how to use RasPi and Octoprint to remotely control ATX power supply and enable you to put it in different power modes like standby mode.
The hack is easy to perform even by novice users, you need do use some code and conect some wires from Raspberry Pi GPIOs to ATX wiring.

















Detailed instructions and the code can be found here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-the-Raspberry-Pi-to-control-an-ATX-power-sup/


High grade aluminum DIY syringe extruder by Liam Gilbertson

DIY syringe pumps and other syringe devices are used in different 3d printing projects for depositing various materials from living cells to solder paste dispensers.
Liam Gilbertson posted a very detailed tutorial on how to build your own syringe extrude from MendelMax 2.0 or any other 3D printer based on 2020 extrusion rails.
Be aware that this is not a novice level project since the extruder is very sturdy and may require some machining knowledge and more specialized tools like laser or water jet cutter able to cut 3mm aluminum.










Step-by-step build guide, all the files and code can be found here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Syringe-Extruder-for-your-MendelMax-20/

GitHub repository: https://github.com/LiamGilbertson/MM2SE


How to design 3d printable eyeglasses with Blender and free pince-nez library

There have been some guides on 3d printing DIY eyeglasses in the past but Jenny made a dedicated Blender library that will enable you to create high quality 3d printable frames from SVG (scalable vector graphics) images of commercial glass frames.
The library will allow you to adjust all the parameters to get a perfect fitting frames where you can insert your prescription lenses.




Here is a video of how you insert the lenses in a frames designed with this method:


She made two post detailing the process:

https://caretdashcaret.wordpress.com/2015/02/27/3d-printed-glasses/

https://caretdashcaret.wordpress.com/2014/07/21/3d-print-your-own-glasses/

You can download her eyeglasses Blender library here:

https://github.com/caretdashcaret/pince-nez

Great work Jenny! As a life long glasses wearer I salute you!

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